Sri Lanka is well known for its festivals, and the month of January is one of the best times to visit this country. I already shared the Galle Literary Festival with you. The excitement is actually building up exponentially as the time draws nearer and nearer. Before this festival is held, however, there is another art festival that you should know about: Kala Pola.

Dubbed as Colombo’s grandest open air art festival, Kala Pola is traditionally held on the third Sunday of January. This festival is relatively new – it started only in the early 1990s, thanks to the genius of George Keyt. This man has impacted the Sri Lankan art culture in unparalleled ways, giving birth to a foundation named after him. Keyt’s supporters founded this organization in an effort to support and promote Sri Lankan artists and their works. More on George Keyt from Art Sri Lanka:

Promoting art and assisting Sri Lanka artists including painters, sculptors, musicians and writers, establishing a gallery of modern Sri Lanka art, restoring and preserving George Keyt’s work in all media, publishing writings and reproducing works of art of George Keyt and others to enable more and more people to have access to them.

Drawing from the inspiration and contribution of George Keyt whose life spanned almost the whole of the 20 Century – as a Painter, Poet, and Writer was a legend in his life-time, the George Keyt Foundation has in over twelve years made a major contribution to promote the Arts, and in a way revive it from the end of the nineteen eighties.

Today, the foundation continues to host Kala Pola at the Viharamahadevi Park in Colombo. The festival has indeed gone a very long way. From the 35 or so artists that took part in the original festival, there are now hundreds that participate and showcase their talent during Kala Pola. Artists come from all walks of life with all sorts of talents: painters, sculptors, etc.

The Kala Pola is actually reminiscent of the open air art galleries or fairs that are held in many European countries during the summer period. The atmosphere is relaxed and yet tinged with the passion of artists. One really important thing to remember about this art festival is that it showcases not only those artists who have already made a name for themselves, but it also provides a chance for budding and struggling artists. The latter group actually benefits a lot from the festival as they get the exposure that they may not have otherwise. From an art enthusiast’s point of view, this is the perfect chance to discover artists and their work. After all, you never know what you may find as you’re strolling along the streets of the art fair.

Art enthusiasts – especially those who are interested specifically in Sri Lankan art – should not miss this festival. The grandiosity of the display and the amount of interaction with artists and other enthusiasts are something that one may experience rarely in a lifetime.

Whenever I come back from a trip to Sri Lanka, my family and friends have now come to expect something special from Barefoot – a wonderful shop of rural handweavers that make and sell the most delightful toys, home ware, clothes and art. In fact, last Christmas we gave Barefoot presents to nearly everybody – lovely hardbound notebooks and photo albums covered in a rainbow of patterns, chic hand-painted candlesticks and cushion covers, brightly colored dolls and teddies, rucksacks in the amusing shape of fish and elephants for the children (which will definitely last a lifetime) and much more- all so unique and special.

The things at Barefoot are certainly not cheap, and the reason for this is that they are all painstakingly handmade and of high quality. From the dyes used, to the weaving process, (Barefoot admonishes use of machinery), Barefoot does it all themselves and what’s interesting is that the work is not done in a factory but from a cottage industry where the people take the work home and do it in their own time.

“….We teach skills & assert no time pressure on our hand weavers or needlewomen…they are not cheap substitutes for machinery… which is why our things are expensive, and will last a lifetime…”

The company was founded by Barbara Sansoni, who has also been designing there for the past 30 years. A textile designer, artist and writer, Barbara started Barefoot in 1958 with the hope of helping under-privileged Sri Lankan women by teaching them skills like dying, weaving and needlework. Today, the company is a model in sustainability and creativity- the workers earn a good wage so that they are able to support their families with dignity, the materials used are natural and non-toxic and the designers are encouraged to stretch their creativity and be innovative in what they create.

The main Barefoot shop in Colombo has a Cafe and Gallery where the calamari pasta and chocolate cake is not to be missed!. The Gallery also plays host to a number of interesting exhibits throughout the year. There are also smaller Barefoot outlets found in Galle, at 41 Pedler Street and at the Lighthouse Hotel.

BAREFOOT, 706 Galle Road, Colombo 3, Sri Lanka. Tel. +94 11 2580114

The gardens at Lunuganga are a rare tropical Eden created by Geoffrey Bawa, Sri Lanka’s most influential architect. And what started out as an abandoned rubber estate, is now one of the most unique places to stay in the country. Over a span of 50 years, Bawa lovingly made this enchanting house and it’s gardens his spiritual home, which is known today as his most personal life’s work. The intriguing estate in the coastal town of Bentota has interesting history of evolution:

Bawa never kept a systematic record of the evolution of the garden and its chronology is now hard to unravel. One fascinating diary of events is provided by a large leather-bound visitors’ book containing a plethora of photographs and sketches as well as signatures and greetings: in 1965 Ulrik Plesner reflects on the problems of the Hilton project; in 1966 Ismeth Raheem records having seen over forty species of bird during one afternoon; in 1973 Donald Friend leaves a doodle of his museum on Bali; in 1997 President Kumaratunga approves the designs of her new Official Residence; and in 1998 Prince Charles drops in for tea.

Perhaps the most memorable visit of all, however, was on 3 January 1988 when a friend called Ray Wijewardene flew down from Colombo in a microlight and, misjudging his landing, crashed into the main roof of the bungalow.

Today, magazines like GQ and Conde Nast Travel have called the property one of the best “boutique hotels” in the country, but what makes it so special is not its luxurious edge, but its historical significance, its tranquility, its unique artistic temperament – both refined and wild.

Lunuganga is an artist’s retreat for most of the year, where The Bawa Trust invites selected artists to stay and soak in the inspiration.

But even if you’re not an artist, you can get a taste of the Bawa experience from December to April, when the chic Lunuganga resort is open for a brief spell to the public, now run by Geoffrey Dobbs, the man behind many of Sri Lanka’s best boutique hotels. The gardens are rather large in 25 acres of lush greenery in the Italian style, owing to the years Bawa spent in Italy, which they say, led him to dream of creating a civilized Italian garden in the wilderness of Sri Lanka’s coast.

Guests staying here will delight in the unexpected delights the gardens have to offer – from romantic loggias and courtyards, to secret areas, pretty ponds and stunning views – of jungles, paddies and a lake – all perfect for picnics or quiet contemplation. While the outdoor spaces merge with indoor spaces, the overall style of the accommodations are startlingly simple – probably so as not to deter from the glory of the gardens.

Still, it is done with the utmost style, and together with the superb food and drink (try the bracingly delicious Lunuganga Sour and the comfort food prepared by non other than Bawa’s cook Catherine), the six ensuite bedrooms spread out from the main house to Bawa’s studio, to the house on Cinnamon Hill, are all elegantly and comfortably furnished, with private butlers at your disposal.

Lunuganga is two hours drive from Colombo and prices start at just £155. For more information or to book your stay, contact the Geoffrey Bawa Trust or various travel companies like Sri Lanka in Style. But before you do, here’s something by David Robson who wrote Geoffrey Bawa: The Complete Works:

In 1948 as Sri Lanka was shaking off the shackles of empire, a young man dreamt of making a garden. Today the garden is in its prime but, after the passage of over fifty monsoons, Sri Lanka has lost its innocence and the young man has grown old. As he sits in his wheelchair on the terrace and watches the sun setting across the lake it may be that he reflects on his achievement. Perhaps the garden had simply been waiting there for him to discover it beneath a canopy of jungle?

But this is a work of art, not of nature: it is the contrivance of a single mind and a hundred pairs of hands working together with nature to produce something that is ’supernatural’. What should become of this magic world? Ought it to be frozen or preserved? Ought it to become a national monument maintained by bureaucrats and trampled over by thousands of souvenir-hunting tourists? Better by far to let the jungle swallow it up than to see it turned into a travesty of its former self.

One of our favourite places to eat and shop in Colombo is The Gallery Cafe. Previously the studio of Sri Lanka’s most famous architect, Geoffrey Bawa, the cafe most definitely carries his mark, and is easily the most stylish restaurant in the bustling capital and often crowded with the “who’s who” of the Colombo jet-setters and expat community.

Although it is located right at the heart of Colombo, the minute you enter the Gallery Cafe’s doors, you feel as if you have entered a tropical oasis. An open air courtyard, latticed doors, tranquil ponds strewn with purple “nil manel” (Sri Lanka’s national flower), comfortable seating and fabulous art everywhere, its the perfect place to relax after a busy day exploring the city.

Start off at the the No.18 Bar and be sure to sample their famous martinis, then after a stroll around the gallery area, pop into the shop for some lovely home items and wooden toys for the children. Then head for your table at the open-air dining area, and feast on the restaurant’s fusion menu by candlelight.

This week’s specials:

Chickpea, risoni, egg and tomato salad with vinaigrette dressing.
Roast leg of lamb with polenta, caramelized onion and mint jelly.
Char grilled duck with teriyaki sauce and pasta.
Tuna stack with salsa verde, aubergine, tomato, basil and mozzarella.
Shitake mushroom on puff pastry with parmesan, walnuts and salad.
Strawberry sundae strawberry red wine ice cream with strawberries, mascarpone, cream, kirsch and almond praline.

A meal for one will cost approx. $15 without wine. Your hotel concierge will know the place and can book you a table.

For the last two years, Geoffrey Dobbs (owner of the Sun House hotel) has organized a literary festival in Galle and it has become a huge success, with tickets sold out well in advance, hotels and villas booked choc-a-bloc and a roster of famous writers visiting that would impress any literary enthusiast.

This year’s event will be held in and around the world heritage site of Galle Fort from the 28th January to February 1st. Writers this year include Thomas Keneally, Germaine Greer, Pico Iyer, Edna O’Brien, Romesh Gunesekera, V.V. Ganeshananthan, MJ Akbar, Giles Milton, Moses Isegawa, Michael Morpurgo and many more.

The continuing popularity of the Galle Literary Festival is owing to the huge energy of Geoffrey and the many other residents of Galle Fort over the last two years. In 2008, noteworthy authors included Alexander McCall Smith, Gore Vidal, Vikram Seth and William Dalrymple. And such famous writers were joined by many renowned Sri Lankan authors and personalities- Kumar Sangakkara, Jean Arasanayagam, Nury Vittachi and countless other budding young authors, chefs, photographers and even bloggers!

You may be asking yourselves…”so where is the luxury here?” Well that’s just it really- the Galle Literary Festival is more than just a series of lectures, discussions and events. In fact one suspects that all that may be just an excuse for some serious indulgence- be that delicious lunches and dinners in the most glamorous private villas of the rich and famous, or gourmet extravaganzas at many of the local boutique hotels cooked by top chefs from around the world, or if you are inclined to be more cultural there are events such as a visit to Geoffrey Bawa’s “Secret Gardens“, where David Robson and Dominic Sansoni (authors of “Bawa: The Sri Lanka Gardens“) guide you on a tour with all the inside stories. This is just one of many events and tours arranged around the festival, which make it that much more special- an individual experience where you are really mixing with those “in the know”.

For more details on the festival, do visit the official website. It’s hard to think of a better last-minute luxury holiday one could recommend if you can still get a ticket!