Spending a luxurious holiday in Ceylon is not at all that hard to do, and of course, your “home base” for your holidays will be at the center of it all. There are a lot of places where you can stay in Ceylon, and one very highly recommended hotel is the Galle Fort Hotel.

Situated on Church Street in Galle Fort, this boutique hotel has already received a lot of attention from foreign visitors as well as the press. It is no wonder, really, as the hotel is perfect in so many ways! Take a look at this list to see what reputable entities have to say about the hotel:

• Conde Nast Hot List 2005
• Chosen by Conde Naste as one of the best new hotels in the world under $200
• Most desirable hotel bed linen in the world Wallpaper magazine
• Winner of the 2007 UNESCO Award of Distinction for cultural heritage conservation
• Selected by The Australian Travel Magazine as “ one of our top five places in the world to chill and relax”

Conde Nast has spoken – no need for further questions, don’t you think? Most desirable bed linen? Count me in! And of course, to be the recipient of such an award from UNESCO speaks volumes.

The hotel is housed in a piece of property dating back to the 17th century, ensuring guests of a stay steeped in history. It is reminiscent of what colonial Ceylon used to be and at the same time showcases the chic modern side of the culture. The hotel has a total of 11 rooms and suites, all of which are quite spacious. Indeed, many a traveler has described their rooms as enormous. In this day and age where chain hoteliers put such a high premium on space, the size of Galle Fort Hotel’s rooms is very much welcome. The design and décor of the rooms are a mix of Sri Lankan and Chinese – very minimal but extremely relaxing.

One of the best features of the hotel is the pool, which is in the courtyard. It really is a simple pool, not very large, but the whole setting is very serene. I doubt that you would want to leave once you find a shady spot to relax in!

Of course, I have to talk about the food, which has garnered so much praise from its guests. The food that the hotel serves is mainly Chinese and Thai, although chef Christopher Ong has quite a few tricks up his sleeve. One thing is for sure – you will have all the fresh seafood that you want! For cocktails, wines, teas, and other drinks, the front verandah is the place to be. It is also open to outside guests, making it the perfect meeting place for a lot of people.

If you’re looking for a quiet and luxurious place to stay – at an affordable price – then you can’t go wrong with the Galle Fort Hotel. For more information, visit the Galle Fort Hotel web site.

After a long day shopping and soaking in the fascinating sights of Colombo, Havelock Place Bungalow is the perfect place to come back to. Its existence has always been a cherished secret to those ‘in the know’. Described by many guests as an oasis in a busy city, this elegant retreat tucked away down a quiet leafy cul-de-sac in the heart of the capital was in fact Colombo’s first boutique hotel and prides itself on its high standard of personalized service in a homely and comfortable setting. Built in the 1940s, the hotel consists of two bungalows, which have been cleverly combined and entwined within a landscaped tropical garden, that provide all modern conveniences within a charming colonial setting.

Having initially opened as an art gallery, fascinating paintings and prints still envelope the walls of the villa especially in the comfortable living room which, with its little library is the main social focal point to the property. Housing three suites and four standard rooms, each with their own courtyard or garden access, Havelock Place Bungalow has a surprisingly large garden full of flowering plants, shady trees, lush foliage and little ponds. A swimming pool and Jacuzzi is located beside an outdoor terrace with a little spot for sunbathing.

Being centrally located in the capital, Havelock Place Bungalow is the ideal place to rest at the start or end of your holiday, or as a base for exploring the exciting museums, historical sights, temples, parks and beaches that Colombo offers. There are many renowned restaurants close by while the villa is a perfect base for some last minute shopping at the end of your holiday.

The charming little hotel comprises seven comfortable and homely rooms – three suites and four standard rooms – each decorated and furnished in a different style with access to a private terrace or to the garden. Rooms come in different shapes and sizes but they are all stylishly decorated with genuine antiques including canopied four poster beds, interesting writing bureaus and wardrobes. Wi-Fi is available and all rooms have telephones. Each is air-conditioned and has en-suite bathrooms with hot water available throughout the day.

Havelock also offers excellent home cooked cuisine which has been consistently highly praised by past guests. Cooked by expert local chefs – under the supervision of Havelock’s owner Sharmala – who combine the freshest local ingredients with western cooking styles the result is a fusion of flavours that include Italian and Mediterranean specialities. The daily menu is written on a blackboard every day with choices of specials based on whichever ingredients were the freshest and best that morning when the chefs went to do the shopping. The fabulous selection of home-made ice creams and sorbets made by Sharmala should not be missed – we recommend you try the passion fruit sorbet. Delicious!

Meals may be served to you in the bistro-like restaurant or even out in the tropical garden. If you prefer to dine in your room or suite this can also be arranged – emphasis on personalized service is very important here. Breakfast consists of either western, Sri Lankan or Continental variations and along with the main meal dishes are all very reasonably priced. They also offer a good selection of imported wines.

The rates for accommodation range from $80 for a standard room and $130 for a suite. As usual, we recommend that you contact the hotel directly to make your booking.

Accreditation: Sri Lanka In Style

Fort Printers is an unassumingly stylish hotel. Unpretentious and quietly chic, it is for people wanting to feel like they are staying at a town villa and yet still be spoiled with a hotel’s services. If you stroll down Galle Fort’s popular Pedlar street (great shopping), you’ll find the Fort Printers at the corner of Church street- you would immediately think the elegantly restored building was the home of some lucky expatriate and not a small luxury hotel!

There is a definite air of nostalgia here, with the black vintage car parked out front (seemingly indefinitely) and the magnificently authentic printing machine in the entrance hall, seen from the street- to name a few. Although I used the word “luxury” in the previous paragraph, I wouldn’t necessarily say the Fort Printers‘ five suites was that- if you think of that word in terms if mod cons, designer toiletries or fancy mattresses seen in most top hotels in Asia these days. It is still very comfortable in an uncluttered boutique sense and smartly furnished with select antiques and interesting handmade crafts. The cozy library and intimate lap pool area are also great additions for tour-weary guests.

As a base for getting to know Galle Fort and it’s environs, Fort Printers would be an excellent choice because of it’s ideal location close to the shops, restaurants and picturesque ramparts. The food is also known to be excellent (try the delicious Mezze menu) and considering what you get for the reasonable rate of around $120 a night (low season), including tax, you could be tempted to stay longer than planned. Or better yet, invite some friends and rent out the entire hotel for a mere $600. Another good option would be to book the “Beach-Fort” promotion, which combines a stay at it’s sister hotel, the lovely Frangipani Tree for a very affordable price, including breakfast and transfers.

Upon arrival through Kahanda Kanda’s unassuming gates, you have to admit that you have indeed entered a very beautiful place. The tea bushes are everywhere and the buildings are all done tastefully, seamlessly blending into it’s natural surroundings. The bright orange wall and tower were a great touch, giving a sophisticated yet ethnic feel to what would otherwise be like so many other places in the Galle area.

Kahanda Kanda rather beautifully translates into yellow moon mountain, and is a chic boutique hotel in a working tea plantation. Once the home of Englishman and interior designer George Cooper, this hilltop retreat has been receiving quite a lot of praise as being one of the top small hotels in the area.

We were welcomed to what seemed to be the bar/sitting room area and a very nice waiter (who may have very well been the famous headwaiter Henry, we can’t be sure) offered us drinks, but as the place was virtually empty except for a loud couple, we decided to proceed to the dining area in the pavilion adjacent. Through a very attractive (but lethal if you had more a few) watery walkway we went, and we were seated and served our Bloody Marys after a longish wait. The drinks were fine, but not quite as good as Charlie Hulse’s!

We were presented the set menu (around $20 a head), which looked perfectly decent:

Curried soup
Green Papaya and Chicken Salad
Choice of puddings (we chose the Coconut & Orange flan)

The service was on the slow side, but no complaints there as the place had such a relaxed and peaceful feel anyway that anything faster would have been irritating. While waiting, we enjoyed the views from the restaurant, overlooking lush jungle and part of Koggala Lake which were absolutely breathtaking.

The food arrived, and the curried vegetable soup was creamy and flavourful. The bread served alongside was homemade and delicious, but the butter (or was it margarine) was on the rancid side. The green papaya salad was plated well, and certainly was tasty, but much too hot and spicy. One of our lunch companions couldn’t eat it at all! Now I can eat a spicy curry with gusto, but I had to agree with him on this one. We all enjoyed the pudding of coconut flan though, which helped put out the fire!

Our verdict? The setting is outstanding, the service good, the food could be better (given the price – but then again, this is indicative of many Galle hotels I’m afraid). We only peeked into the rooms, which looked smart and comfortable. We’ll definitely be staying here soon! Prices start at just $230 in the low season and numerous special packages are available now.

One of the best things about the Dutch House, is that it is more like a graceful colonial home than it is a hotel. A short walk (or drive, in a charming vintage car no less) up the high Dickson Road, The Dutch House is perched on a tranquil space overlooking Galle Fort, in close proximity, yet set apart from it’s more lively sister hotel, The Sun House.

At first sight, though, one could come to the conclusion that the simple architecture and “no-frills” look of faded yellow ochre (again, unlike it’s flirty sister in white, The Sun House) could be less than welcoming. But once you enter your suite, you are thankfully proven wrong. Far from being austere, the huge four-poster beds are invitingly draped with mosquito netting, with the antique wooden doors opening up to the landscaped gardens or croquet lawn, definitely adding a feeling of warmth and relaxation.

Also called Doornburg, the Dutch House’s origins go as far back as 1712, making it one of the most well-preserved historical houses in the area. But that’s not its only claim to fame. After the Tsunami in 2004, pop superstar Sting called the Dutch House his home in Galle, obviously preferring the understated elegance and privacy of the old merchant’s house compared to other hotels in the area. With just four suites (Sting stayed in the enormous, cathedral-ceiling Ballroom, pictured above) in the property, each one has a style of it’s own, yet all of them carrying the same classic colonial design, filled with fine antiques, richly colored tapestries and fine silk fabrics. The bathrooms are large, pale and spare, simply fitted out with not much more than a bathtub, claw-foot if you prefer. Perfect for a soak after a long day exploring the area of Galle, which is just a stone’s throw away from the hotel.

Another wonderful reason to stay at the Dutch House are the magnificent views, perhaps the best in all of Galle. Whether you are seated at your suite’s veranda for afternoon tea, or on a lounger by the simply gorgeous infinity pool, you’ll be spoiled by the views, ranging from the lush jungle to the ocean, to the picturesque town below- which can be even more stunning in the evenings. One warning- while many find it wonderfully atmospheric, others find the sounds amplified by a loudspeaker from the local Mosque a bit irritating

Included in your suite’s rate of $320++ is breakfast, which can be English, Continental or Sri Lankan (hoppers!) and is conveniently served at any time of day, anywhere you wish. While light lunches and snacks (consisting of pan-Asian cuisine using delicate flavours like tamarind and coconut cream) are served around the outdoor areas, dinner is usually taken next door at the Sun House, whose chef is renowned as one of the best in all of Galle.

As we said, this hotel is the ideal choice for those seeking comfort and privacy in elegant surroundings, but it is also ideal for a large group of friends or family. Indeed, many have chosen the Dutch House for weddings, parties and other special occasions, and because the property is so special, it is not hard to see why.

To make a booking, we recommend doing it directly through the Dutch House’s website, where you’ll find the right email and contact information. If you have any questions, or are planning a special occasion, it would be a good idea to contact the very efficient and delightfully flamboyant Henri Tatham, manager of the hotel. It may also be useful to know that the Dutch House is part of The Tabrobane Collection, a group of luxe properties around the country owned by Geoffrey Dobbs, each one fabulous in its own way and if you like their particular style- it’s perhaps a good way to plan your itinerary around whilst in Sri Lanka.

**photo courtesy of Sri Lanka in Style**

In a previous post, we featured Helga’s Folly, our pick for an unusual place to stay in Kandy. However, this is not everyone’s cup of tea and many people do find it lacks the necessary comforts. And so here we feature our second top choice in Kandy: Kandy House. Even if you do stay at Helga’s Folly and have the time, this beautiful boutique hotel is evidently well worth checking out. The hotel is located 12km from the center of Kandy and about a three and a half hour drive from Colombo airport. It is extremely tastefully and elegantly decorated and set amidst an authentic jungle.

Formerly the grand ancestral home of one of Kandy’s most influential aristocratic families, Kandy House sits on 6 acres in a quiet village area close to Kandy. Filled with antique furniture, there are nine suites set around a central two storied courtyard and a ninth room in the garden. From the veranda where guests have breakfast and dinner, the garden descends to a palm fringed infinity pool designed in the shape of a traditional paddy field.

Kandy House was restored in a style that combines classical Kandyan period architecture with Dutch colonial furnishings and a soft, colorful and elegant finish. Large shady verandas, double hammocks and tropical lawns encourage one to find a comfortable and quiet corner to relax or read. Kandy House is a good base to explore Kandy and its surroundings: the botanical gardens, the Temple of the Tooth and the magnificent Victoria Golf and Country Club.

The menu is comprised of Oriental, Western and Sri Lankan specialties. Favorites include sugarcane prawns, juggary-cured tuna, jak seed gnocchi, chocolate-chili-cinnamon pudding and homemade durian ice cream. Everything is bought fresh from local markets each day. Breakfast and dinner is served on your own veranda or in the dinning veranda overlooking the garden. Dinner is always preceded by cocktails in the Butterfly Bar on the courtyard. Madhur Jaffry, the renowned connoisseur of Eastern food, once said: “I could settle down and live here!”

As this is one place that we haven’t actually stayed in ourselves (although we have heard great things from friends), we thought that we’d do a bit of digging up of travel reviews. 90% are excellent, for example this review from Trip Advisor:

The Kandy House is set in the hills in Kandy and is a beautiful colonial house. There is no air conditioning but I do think this would detract from the overall feel of the place if it were there. The fan in the room above the bed should be enough to keep you cool and in the early morning we found ourselves covering up as the area cooled in the shade of darkness. The house only has 8 rooms but each has its own style. We went for the big veranda room with a four poster bed, separate study/lounge area, veranda and victorian roll-top bath with separate shower. the room looks and feels lovely. The whole place has a really relaxed feel and the food is superb. On the day we left we had to be up early to travel to Colombo for our flight. The staff had made up a breakfast pack for us with water, fruit and delicious sandwiches.

There are a few games set up for the guests to play. We discovered one that looked a bit like draughts but involved flicking the pieces into pockets. two of the staff came over and saw we were struggling a bit so they gave us a great lesson in how to play the game. It feels like a family place rather than staff/guests/management. Everyone who was there seemed completely chilled out. Try out the pool, loungers and swing at the back of the house.

Sri Lankans are relaxed, friendly people and both this and the Fortress in Galle had picked the best staff possible. Really enjoyed my stay!

The 10% of negative comments seem to be in regard to two things- firstly that no children under twelve years old are allowed to stay and secondly those guests who missed having an aircon. So either of these two things are prerequisites for you, don’t stay at Kandy House. Many actually liked having no aircons and found the fans ample for cooling, and of course there are those discerning luxury travelers who couldn’t be happier to know that there will be no screaming children about

Rates for the nine suites vary hugely, as each one is different, but approximately you should expect to spend from $200 – $350 per night. As usual, we recommend contacting the hotel directly to make your booking.

In a previous post, we gave our top accommodation pick for Colombo: Park Street. If that happens to be full or you fancy something a little different, here is our second top pick for a boutique hotel in Colombo to suit the luxury traveler: Casa Colombo. This hotel is very conveniently and centrally located down a private lane just off the Galle Road.

Casa Colombo is a stunningly restored 200 year old Moorish mansion originally built by one of the wealthiest Indian trading families of the time. Combining old world charm with contemporary design, Casa is a tribute to the creative talents of its owner: Lalin Jinasena who innovatively custom designed everything from the cutlery and crockery to the furniture and fabrics- solely using craftsmen and materials from Sri Lanka. With no reception desk, Casa Domos personally look after you during your entire stay by taking care of any needs that may arise be it getting you a poolside drink, taking you on a city tour or sending an important business fax.

While Casa Colombo retains the fabulous Moorish architectural style that includes charming mosaic floors, it is unconventionally infused with an edgy personalized design that blends contemporary furniture, vibrant colors and the very latest technology. Space is an added luxury in each of the highly individualized suites while perhaps the most striking feature of the hotel is the pink mosaic swimming pool that could easily be the only one of its kind in the world! Glass and cement canopied day beds beside it come with two tune selectors for chilling in the tropical sun ideally with a glass of the CASA Nova signature cocktail.

A fabulous choice of restaurants and bars for such a small hotel means that you get to dine out every night, however Colombo’s finest are all at your doorstep. With such a central location in the capital- Casa has easy access to the city’s shopping and cultural attractions, while the hotel has a private spot on Mt Lavinia Beach for the exclusive use of Casa guests.

There are twelve suites all lavishly restored. Our favorite suite (if you’re feeling flush!) is the luxurious Royal Suite with its jacuzzi in the balcony- which will set you back about $400. Alternatively, book the Ebaneza Corporate Suite (which is the most spacious of its kind) for approx. $250. You can get one of the smaller suites for around $150, but then if you’re looking to travel Sri Lanka on a budget- you’re reading the wrong blog

As usual, we recommend contacting the hotel directly to book a room to cut out any middle men- they’ll appreciate it and are more likely to give you a better deal or at the very least take special care of you!

Perhaps one of the most obvious and desirable things to do when traveling to Sri Lanka is to to visit the tea country. As TeaAuction.com writes:

“The Sri Lankan tea industry is the country’s largest employer providing jobs directly and indirectly to over a million people. It also contributes a significant amount to Government revenue and to the gross domestic product. Sri lanka is the 3rd biggest tea producer with a market share of 9%. The total land used for tea cultivation is approximately 187,309 hectares. Sri Lankan tea has unique characteristics and reputation as arguably the best teas in the world. The ideal climatic conditions of the plantation give the teas a variety of rich flavours and aromas, which indicate high quality.”

But with such a huge variety of choice and large distances to cover, where should the luxury traveler go to get a taste of the “Ceylon tea experience” while at the same time being able to relax and travel in style? We recommend Tea Trails…..

Tea Trails is in central Sri Lanka, four hours from Colombo by car to the Castlereagh Lake. It lies in the Bogawantalawa Valley, known as the Golden Valley of Tea and home to old Ceylon, replete with rolling green hills, plantation bungalows, high tea and exquisite service. Sri Lankan locals like to call this area “Little England” as it rains so much! The estate sits at an elevation of 4000 feet above sea level. There are four classic colonial bungalows built for British tea estate managers in the days of the Raj. These historic houses have been restored by Dilmah Tea with the co-operation of Bogawantalawa Tea Estates, to offer guests the unique experience of life on a working tea estate. Bungalow sizes range from 4 to 6 rooms- in all there are 20 luxurious rooms and suites. However, it is the ambience that makes the hotel so special in our opinion:

“Life in all its variety is played out in the living rooms. Pale tones and natural wood create equilibrium in the midst of a hectic life. Each bungalow has many sitting areas, old wooden desks to write postcards with real stamps and not just email. Silk cushions, regency stripped footstools, huge spaces warmed by roaring log fires. Mulled wine or the finest spirits, a drink that thrills the heart. Old books, old prints, antique maps, rooms filled with flowers in vibrant colours. Wide verandahs. Time for relaxing on cushioned cane chairs, waited on hand and foot by the discreet butler. Long expanses of slate to spend long afternoons, with a gimlet, white wine and cucumber sandwiches or fresh roasted cashews. Watch the lake and study the garden bees, while reading Somerset Maugham.”

The cuisine at Tea Trails is also excellent:

“Long teak tables and chairs in old gold. Moonlight through the window gently glows in the room, filled with the light of candles. Fine cuisine. Tea infused dishes. Sri Lankan classics. Seafood grills, fresh tropical fruit, rich chocolate cakes, the finest wines and vegetables from organic plots around the estate. A formal dinner or a simple alfresco lunch. Meals, wines and spirits included in your rate, no bills to sign. A butler at your beck and call.”

All in all, Tea Trails is the perfect place to explore Sri Lanka’s tea country from- a truly luxurious, “boutique” travel experience. You set your own pace while at Tea Trails and can unwind in the beautiful gardens, visit a factory for a gentle education in the art of Ceylon Tea, have a spa treatment or spend an adventure-filled day biking, trekking and white-water rafting. The views from all parts of the hotel are incomparably stunning.

Accommodation rates vary hugely according to how many are in your group. For a double room, prices range from $200 – $300. Best to contact the hotel directly to arrange what suits you best. Tea Trails is also part of the Sri Lanka In Style group who can also arrange a luxury tour for you.

Up in the leafy hills of Kandy in the central part of the country, you’ll find the most extraordinary hotel- a technicolor vision of the old-world-meets-Goth, called Helga’s Folly. It’s a hotel and restaurant you’ll either love or hate – where literally every inch of space is painted or decorated with bright colours, fantasy murals, dripping candles and glitzy accessories crossed with the traditional – old paintings, antique furniture, stuffed animal heads and a wind-up gramophone playing Ella Fitzgerald.

Helga’s Folly is presided over Helga herself, a glamorous Anglophile in Jackie O sun glasses, with a tendency towards the eccentric:

“This is my home and I want everyone who visits it to feel at home. That is the point. I call it an Anti-Hotel! We give our in-house guests complimentary afternoon tea and before dinner serve cocktails and canapes. I try to make it feel like home. The main thing is that people must come back! And we are lucky enough to have a few that do return!”

Helga was described by the Times as “a benevolent Cruella deVil, complete with pet dalmatian” and the hotel was the home were she was raised. In those days, guests were people like Sir Laurence Olivier, Vivien Leigh and the Ghandis. These days it is fashion/rock star-types (Paula Yates reportedly loved it) and travellers looking for something different. Very different indeed! Helga comes from an illustrious family, and is the mother of British designer Selina Blow. Her history and exciting life is seen throughout the house, which is full of interesting memorabilia in every room.

But while the hotel rooms are lavishly over-the-top in style, it has been reported that they are in need of a face lift. You can choose from a variety of 40 rooms, all with wonderful balconies with views and air conditioning- from standard to the nutcracker suite, complete with a four-poster bed. A cinema room with DVDs for children was recently added, and parents will also be happy to know that the lovely staff here will entertain their children while they have a romantic dinner under the stars (at Helga’s you can choose to eat almost anywhere you please!). Facilities also include a swimming pool, lush gardens and a spa.

Whether or not this unusual place is your cup of tea, it is definitely worth a visit when you are in Kandy, which is easily one of the most picturesque places in Sri Lanka. Stop by for lunch at the very least as Helga’s now serves “Organic and Innovative” cuisine, and have a look around at this unique property- an unforgettable experience into Helga’s imagination.

Prices begin at $145 for a standard room, with breakfast $155. The Nutcracker Suite costs $440 a night, half board. For reservations, you can book directly thorough the hotel here.