To follow up this, we thought it would be interesting to compare how Old Ceylon has evolved into the New Sri Lanka over the last century using photographic imagery.

To start us off, here is a picture of Pettah, in Colombo:

And here are some other wonderful examples of how Old Ceylon has become New Sri Lanka…

Galle Face Hotel, Colombo

Air Ceylon

York Street, Colombo

Khan Clock Tower, Colombo

Colombo Harbour

We will be posting more of these soon

After a long day shopping and soaking in the fascinating sights of Colombo, Havelock Place Bungalow is the perfect place to come back to. Its existence has always been a cherished secret to those ‘in the know’. Described by many guests as an oasis in a busy city, this elegant retreat tucked away down a quiet leafy cul-de-sac in the heart of the capital was in fact Colombo’s first boutique hotel and prides itself on its high standard of personalized service in a homely and comfortable setting. Built in the 1940s, the hotel consists of two bungalows, which have been cleverly combined and entwined within a landscaped tropical garden, that provide all modern conveniences within a charming colonial setting.

Having initially opened as an art gallery, fascinating paintings and prints still envelope the walls of the villa especially in the comfortable living room which, with its little library is the main social focal point to the property. Housing three suites and four standard rooms, each with their own courtyard or garden access, Havelock Place Bungalow has a surprisingly large garden full of flowering plants, shady trees, lush foliage and little ponds. A swimming pool and Jacuzzi is located beside an outdoor terrace with a little spot for sunbathing.

Being centrally located in the capital, Havelock Place Bungalow is the ideal place to rest at the start or end of your holiday, or as a base for exploring the exciting museums, historical sights, temples, parks and beaches that Colombo offers. There are many renowned restaurants close by while the villa is a perfect base for some last minute shopping at the end of your holiday.

The charming little hotel comprises seven comfortable and homely rooms – three suites and four standard rooms – each decorated and furnished in a different style with access to a private terrace or to the garden. Rooms come in different shapes and sizes but they are all stylishly decorated with genuine antiques including canopied four poster beds, interesting writing bureaus and wardrobes. Wi-Fi is available and all rooms have telephones. Each is air-conditioned and has en-suite bathrooms with hot water available throughout the day.

Havelock also offers excellent home cooked cuisine which has been consistently highly praised by past guests. Cooked by expert local chefs – under the supervision of Havelock’s owner Sharmala – who combine the freshest local ingredients with western cooking styles the result is a fusion of flavours that include Italian and Mediterranean specialities. The daily menu is written on a blackboard every day with choices of specials based on whichever ingredients were the freshest and best that morning when the chefs went to do the shopping. The fabulous selection of home-made ice creams and sorbets made by Sharmala should not be missed – we recommend you try the passion fruit sorbet. Delicious!

Meals may be served to you in the bistro-like restaurant or even out in the tropical garden. If you prefer to dine in your room or suite this can also be arranged – emphasis on personalized service is very important here. Breakfast consists of either western, Sri Lankan or Continental variations and along with the main meal dishes are all very reasonably priced. They also offer a good selection of imported wines.

The rates for accommodation range from $80 for a standard room and $130 for a suite. As usual, we recommend that you contact the hotel directly to make your booking.

Accreditation: Sri Lanka In Style

The autumn forecast is definitely hot in Colombo this year, with the upcoming World Spice Festival to take place in November. This festive international event will run from November 6th-14th, and based on the success of the past few years (it first started in 2005), visitors and residents will be treated to a lively, fun and definitely delicious week of all things spice.

Celebrity chefs will be flying in from around the world, showcasing their culinary talents from venues around the city – many doing week long festivals of cooking and competing at top hotels and restaurants. The food to look forward to? Cuban American, Moroccan, Arabian, Italian, Spanish, Portugese, Szechuan, Cantonese, Seafood, Thai, Indonesian Balinese, Korean, Malaysian, Singapore, Japanese, Indian, Pakistan and Sri Lankan specialties. Wow! And there’s more- a Sri Lanka Crab promotion and spice ice cream. Now that I’d love to try, while I enjoy viewing the Spice Painting competition.

For the first few days of the event, organizers are holding a public “Global Spice Food Village” from 6 to 8th November. At the Galle Face hotel Green you can expect a flurry of smart outdoor activities, and an exotic Spice Bazaar is open nightly on the banks of Beira Lake.

This year, participating hotels, cafes and restaurants at the “Global Spice Food Village” will be Hilton Colombo, Galle Face Hotel, Galadari, Cinnamon Lakeside (formerly Trans Asia), Cinnamon Grand, Taj Samudra, Ceylon Continental, Holiday Inn, Mount Lavinia, Waters Edge, Raja Bojun, Siam House, The Mango Tree, Sizzle Grill, Regina Margharita and Nihon Bashi.

For more information, contact the hotels above participating or the organizers of the event, the Sri Lanka Tourist Development Authority .

Some readers have given us feedback on this blog, saying that while they love the luxe angle and reviews of top accommodations in Sri Lanka, they would also like more insight into the real, everyday Ceylon. While we might say that this isn’t really what this site is about, as outlined in our first post, we do accept that too much coverage of luxury travel with no relation as to what you can expect outside and around your chosen home might not be a completely realistic representation.

So we are asking our readers to contribute reviews on their experience of Sri Lanka. One email we received is from Prudence Cook- a writer from Australia who served a month’s internship as a journalist with Upali Newspapers.

“It was dark when I arrived in Sri Lanka and, after 24 hours worth of flights and transits, I was tired. I tried to make polite chit-chat with my driver, but neither of us could understand the others accent so I resigned myself to looking out the window sleepily, taking in my first impressions of the country that was to be my home for the next month. All I managed to make out were colourful Buddha’s in brightly lit glass enclosures and silhouettes of soldiers, the shadows playing against their guns making them look enormous.

My first days passed in a slow haze of jetlag and humidity, and a particularly nasty trip on a jagged piece of concrete protruding from the sidewalk. I left a trail of blood all the way back to the hotel and have worn closed toed shoes ever since.

People assume that coming from Australia I should be used to the heat, but I’ve come from Melbourne in the middle of winter and it’s freezing. Where I’m from, we have dry heat that penetrates your skin and send people running for the shade until a cool change comes through in the evening. Here the heat is heavy and sticky all of the time. The only respite comes from a cold shower, and even then, feeling of being fresh and clean is fleeting.

The traffic is perhaps the first thing you notice in Sri Lanka that is entirely different from home. Lanes, traffic lights, road signs and pedestrian crossings are indicators only and not necessarily firm rules. Car horns, unlike at home where a toot is usually followed by a stream of abuse and a rude hand gesture, are simply used as a common courtesy. Although its congested and chaotic, at least the traffic is constantly moving. I’m usually a poor passenger, tensing as cars approach and often clutching at my seat during fast turns, but surprisingly, I’ve remained relaxed in Sri Lankan traffic, even when my driver has to negotiate cows, dogs, tuk-tuks and hair-raising roundabouts.

The public transport too, has left me unfazed. Initially I was nervous as I had heard horror stories from other travellers, and even some Sri Lankans seem surprised that I regularly take the bus, but I don’t mind the sharp corners, the exhaust fumes in my face and the dust under my eyes. The buses here are no more crowded than Melbourne ’s public transport and there’s a slight exhilaration to jumping on and off a bus that’s in motion.

The first question I am always asked by both Sri Lankans, and my friends and family at home is always about food. Luckily for me, I have always been a fan of spicy foods, and the novelty of spice, rice and curry at every meal is yet to wear off. I’m always provided with a knife and fork to eat my dinner, but I find that eating with my fingers allows for a greater blending of flavours and gives you a closer relationship with your food. The fruit here is the best I have ever tasted and it saddens me to think that when I get back to Australia , the mangos, bananas and pineapples will never taste as sweet as they did in Sri Lanka . I don’t think I will find a king coconut or a mangosteen anywhere in Australia , particularly not at the ready, sitting brightly coloured and appetizing on a roadside stall.

Sri Lankans are wonderful people, genuinely interested and happy to help out. Unlike other Asian countries, where asking for directions, or getting someone to take a photo of you will result in you being fleeced out of cash, Sri Lankans will go out of their way to ensure you enjoy their beautiful country. I’ve had a gentleman lead me across several pulsing roadways in order to ensure that I get settled onto the right bus, conversing with the conductor in Sinhalese on my behalf to ensure that I arrived at the right destination.

Perhaps the thing that took the longest to become accustomed to is the concept of Sri Lankan time. I have always been incredibly punctual and impossibly impatient, two characteristics that are only accentuated by the frenetic pace, corporate drive and hustle and bustle of Melbourne city. Here, everything runs late, but no one is fazed by that, it’s just accepted. It took me a good two weeks before I lost my purposeful stride and learnt to amble along at a slow walking pace like my fellow pedestrians, although sometimes I catch myself starting to hurry and stop myself, because there really is no need. I envy the Sri Lankan ability to sleep anywhere at anytime.

In addition to my new found patience, I m also learning that personal space, something revered back home, is not only unknown in Sri Lanka , but also unnecessary. Being jostled along is simply a requirement in getting where you’re going and even the slightest hesitation will mean that you miss opportunities. There are no ladies before gentlemen rules, but I don’t mind. If you’re not quick enough, you miss out. It’s a simple philosophy and I think it’s quite effective. It’s kept me on my toes.

I heard many a story from other travelers about bad things can that happen in Sri Lanka , but I am yet to experience any of it. All my experiences, with the exception perhaps of a few close calls in Colombo’s traffic, have been pleasant and I far prefer the company of Sri Lankans to the other travelers I have met, who want everything to be the same as home only cheaper, or expatriates, who enjoy the luxury’s of five star living without ever really getting to know the real Sri Lanka and its people. Sri Lankans have welcomed me into their homes and lives, explaining the ins and outs of their lifestyles and diets, and preventing me from making ignorant faux-pas. Their generosity, kindness and hospitality are something that I hope my fellow Australians can aspire to.

Everything in Sri Lanka, no matter how foreign it is to me, is endearing in its own way; the cows grazing contentedly beneath the perfectly manicured hedges of the roundabouts, the smell of incense and the sound of sweeping coming from the temples of an evening and the man in the faded blue sarong who I pass on the bus every morning who cuts up fish with three expectant cats lined up at his feet. There is an inherent beauty to this land, and something delightful and rewarding can be taken from every little experience.

Sri Lanka has helped me to be more patient, open-minded and accepting and has also planted in me the firm belief that I am capable of doing anything. I won’t miss the mosquito bites, or the smell of rotting trash on my walk to the bus in the morning, but these are minor annoyances that have in no way detracted from my over all experience. Upon my return I think I’ll find that I miss Sri Lanka more than I missed Australia . I’ll come back, hopefully sooner rather than later, there is still so much more I need to see.“

Many thanks to Prudence for sending this! If any of you would like to send us your own experience and perspective on Sri Lanka, please use our contact form

Crispy on the edges, smooth in the center with a variety of lovely (and spicy) fillings to choose from, Hoppers are, hands down, my favourite Sri Lankan dish. These delightful pancake-style dishes are only found in Sri Lanka, and although there are different varieties you can have for breakfast, lunch, or even dinner, many locals have them for breakfast on a weekend, when they can take out their hopper pans and make them at home.

Hoppers (also called Appa) are another food native to Sri Lanka, served mainly for breakfast or lunch and often accompanied by Lunu miris, a fiery hot mix of red onions and spices. Hoppers are made from a fermented batter of rice flour, coconut milk and a dash of palm toddy, which lends a sour flavor and fermentation ability. If toddy is not available, yeast is often used. The batter is left to rise, then cooked in a hemispherical wok-like pan. There are many types of hoppers including egg hoppers, milk hoppers, and sweeter varieties like vanduappa and paniappa.

One can find hoppers all around Sri Lanka, from the street shops, restaurants, your hotel, or even the mobile hopper man, who would have them in a cart attached to his bicycle. Many hotels, like the Hilton, even hold Hopper Festivals, where their chefs put on a display of making an assortment of the little delights. The Hilton in Colombo also serves hoppers at it’s popular restaurant, the Curry Leaf, a pretty outdoor venue. In Galle, I had egg hoppers for breakfast at the Amangalla, which were excellent. Served with a delicious coconut sambal and other chillies, it was one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever had!

Below is a photo of a string hopper, which is light and good served with a curry. A must-try!

Upon arrival through Kahanda Kanda’s unassuming gates, you have to admit that you have indeed entered a very beautiful place. The tea bushes are everywhere and the buildings are all done tastefully, seamlessly blending into it’s natural surroundings. The bright orange wall and tower were a great touch, giving a sophisticated yet ethnic feel to what would otherwise be like so many other places in the Galle area.

Kahanda Kanda rather beautifully translates into yellow moon mountain, and is a chic boutique hotel in a working tea plantation. Once the home of Englishman and interior designer George Cooper, this hilltop retreat has been receiving quite a lot of praise as being one of the top small hotels in the area.

We were welcomed to what seemed to be the bar/sitting room area and a very nice waiter (who may have very well been the famous headwaiter Henry, we can’t be sure) offered us drinks, but as the place was virtually empty except for a loud couple, we decided to proceed to the dining area in the pavilion adjacent. Through a very attractive (but lethal if you had more a few) watery walkway we went, and we were seated and served our Bloody Marys after a longish wait. The drinks were fine, but not quite as good as Charlie Hulse’s!

We were presented the set menu (around $20 a head), which looked perfectly decent:

Curried soup
Green Papaya and Chicken Salad
Choice of puddings (we chose the Coconut & Orange flan)

The service was on the slow side, but no complaints there as the place had such a relaxed and peaceful feel anyway that anything faster would have been irritating. While waiting, we enjoyed the views from the restaurant, overlooking lush jungle and part of Koggala Lake which were absolutely breathtaking.

The food arrived, and the curried vegetable soup was creamy and flavourful. The bread served alongside was homemade and delicious, but the butter (or was it margarine) was on the rancid side. The green papaya salad was plated well, and certainly was tasty, but much too hot and spicy. One of our lunch companions couldn’t eat it at all! Now I can eat a spicy curry with gusto, but I had to agree with him on this one. We all enjoyed the pudding of coconut flan though, which helped put out the fire!

Our verdict? The setting is outstanding, the service good, the food could be better (given the price – but then again, this is indicative of many Galle hotels I’m afraid). We only peeked into the rooms, which looked smart and comfortable. We’ll definitely be staying here soon! Prices start at just $230 in the low season and numerous special packages are available now.

If you find yourself in the bustling capital city of Colombo and are looking for a charming place to stay for a few nights, and are looking for something a little larger and more anonymous than our previous recommendations of two “boutique hotels“- Park Street and Casa Colombo, then the Galle Face Hotel is our pick. It is easily the most interesting and historical large hotel in the city, and is well worth a stay. Oozing with style and elegance from a bygone era, the Galle Face was built in 1864 during the British colonial era and throughout it’s colorful history has played host to celebrities, literary legends, royalty and leaders from all over the world. Princess Alexandra of Denmark once said:

“The peacefulness and generosity encountered at the Galle Face Hotel cannot be matched”

It’s spectacular seaside location, right by the Indian Ocean, sets the Galle Face apart from the rest, as the hotel’s restaurants and rooms enjoy some of best sea views in Colombo. In the new Regency Wing, for instance, guests can sleep in wonderful “Oceanic Suites“, which have three large windows on all sides and include an in-room jacuzzi.

The hotel has two distinct wings, the Classic Wing, and the Regency Wing, which was just recently renovated. Although the Classic Wing certainly has it’s own old fashioned charm and very low prices (from just $55 for a standard room to $130 for a suite), some guests have complained of the lack of space and that the decor was somewhat tired. We agree!! So while the rooms and suites in the Regency Wing, which are newly renovated and much more comfortable, are more expensive- they are definitely preferable and better value for money.

The Galle Face has a lovely poolside terrace, which at night is charmingly lit up- making it the perfect place for sunset cocktails. For dinner, guests have the choice of four venues, for sea views or candlelit dinners, there are the Sea Spray and the Verandah restaurants to try. For a fine dining experience, there is the smart 1864 restaurant, and for drinks pre or post dinner, the paneled Wine Bar is worth a visit to sample their extensive vintages, cheese and cigars.

During the day, the saltwater pool (the largest one of it’s kind in the city) overlooking the sea, is the ideal spot to relax after a busy day’s shopping or sightseeing, as is the Spa, which is a 20,000 square foot space of pure tranquility.

As you enter through its doors a warm sense of well-being will overwhelm you, and the graceful architecture, soothing surroundings, relaxing water elements, traditional timber floors and nature-friendly furnishings complemented by soft calming music will set the ambiance for you to enjoy the ultimate in pampering.

To book a room at Galle Face Hotel, for once we recommend that you contact an agent rather then the hotel directly, as we have found that the hotel rack rates are hugely discounted at companies like Red Dot Tours.

]]> http://www.ceylonluxury.com/2009/05/british-colonial-elegance-at-the-galle-face-hotel/feed/ 0 http://www.ceylonluxury.com/2009/04/casa-colombo-old-world-charm-in-colombo/ http://www.ceylonluxury.com/2009/04/casa-colombo-old-world-charm-in-colombo/#comments Mon, 06 Apr 2009 03:52:14 +0000 Antonella http://www.ceylonluxury.com/?p=295

In a previous post, we gave our top accommodation pick for Colombo: Park Street. If that happens to be full or you fancy something a little different, here is our second top pick for a boutique hotel in Colombo to suit the luxury traveler: Casa Colombo. This hotel is very conveniently and centrally located down a private lane just off the Galle Road.

Casa Colombo is a stunningly restored 200 year old Moorish mansion originally built by one of the wealthiest Indian trading families of the time. Combining old world charm with contemporary design, Casa is a tribute to the creative talents of its owner: Lalin Jinasena who innovatively custom designed everything from the cutlery and crockery to the furniture and fabrics- solely using craftsmen and materials from Sri Lanka. With no reception desk, Casa Domos personally look after you during your entire stay by taking care of any needs that may arise be it getting you a poolside drink, taking you on a city tour or sending an important business fax.

While Casa Colombo retains the fabulous Moorish architectural style that includes charming mosaic floors, it is unconventionally infused with an edgy personalized design that blends contemporary furniture, vibrant colors and the very latest technology. Space is an added luxury in each of the highly individualized suites while perhaps the most striking feature of the hotel is the pink mosaic swimming pool that could easily be the only one of its kind in the world! Glass and cement canopied day beds beside it come with two tune selectors for chilling in the tropical sun ideally with a glass of the CASA Nova signature cocktail.

A fabulous choice of restaurants and bars for such a small hotel means that you get to dine out every night, however Colombo’s finest are all at your doorstep. With such a central location in the capital- Casa has easy access to the city’s shopping and cultural attractions, while the hotel has a private spot on Mt Lavinia Beach for the exclusive use of Casa guests.

There are twelve suites all lavishly restored. Our favorite suite (if you’re feeling flush!) is the luxurious Royal Suite with its jacuzzi in the balcony- which will set you back about $400. Alternatively, book the Ebaneza Corporate Suite (which is the most spacious of its kind) for approx. $250. You can get one of the smaller suites for around $150, but then if you’re looking to travel Sri Lanka on a budget- you’re reading the wrong blog

As usual, we recommend contacting the hotel directly to book a room to cut out any middle men- they’ll appreciate it and are more likely to give you a better deal or at the very least take special care of you!

]]> http://www.ceylonluxury.com/2009/04/casa-colombo-old-world-charm-in-colombo/feed/ 0 http://www.ceylonluxury.com/2009/03/barefoot-uniquely-handmade-and-eco-friendly-shopping/ http://www.ceylonluxury.com/2009/03/barefoot-uniquely-handmade-and-eco-friendly-shopping/#comments Mon, 02 Mar 2009 07:36:06 +0000 Antonella http://www.ceylonluxury.com/?p=194

Whenever I come back from a trip to Sri Lanka, my family and friends have now come to expect something special from Barefoot – a wonderful shop of rural handweavers that make and sell the most delightful toys, home ware, clothes and art. In fact, last Christmas we gave Barefoot presents to nearly everybody – lovely hardbound notebooks and photo albums covered in a rainbow of patterns, chic hand-painted candlesticks and cushion covers, brightly colored dolls and teddies, rucksacks in the amusing shape of fish and elephants for the children (which will definitely last a lifetime) and much more- all so unique and special.

The things at Barefoot are certainly not cheap, and the reason for this is that they are all painstakingly handmade and of high quality. From the dyes used, to the weaving process, (Barefoot admonishes use of machinery), Barefoot does it all themselves and what’s interesting is that the work is not done in a factory but from a cottage industry where the people take the work home and do it in their own time.

“….We teach skills & assert no time pressure on our hand weavers or needlewomen…they are not cheap substitutes for machinery… which is why our things are expensive, and will last a lifetime…”

The company was founded by Barbara Sansoni, who has also been designing there for the past 30 years. A textile designer, artist and writer, Barbara started Barefoot in 1958 with the hope of helping under-privileged Sri Lankan women by teaching them skills like dying, weaving and needlework. Today, the company is a model in sustainability and creativity- the workers earn a good wage so that they are able to support their families with dignity, the materials used are natural and non-toxic and the designers are encouraged to stretch their creativity and be innovative in what they create.

The main Barefoot shop in Colombo has a Cafe and Gallery where the calamari pasta and chocolate cake is not to be missed!. The Gallery also plays host to a number of interesting exhibits throughout the year. There are also smaller Barefoot outlets found in Galle, at 41 Pedler Street and at the Lighthouse Hotel.

BAREFOOT, 706 Galle Road, Colombo 3, Sri Lanka. Tel. +94 11 2580114

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