Spending a luxurious holiday in Ceylon is not at all that hard to do, and of course, your “home base” for your holidays will be at the center of it all. There are a lot of places where you can stay in Ceylon, and one very highly recommended hotel is the Galle Fort Hotel.

Situated on Church Street in Galle Fort, this boutique hotel has already received a lot of attention from foreign visitors as well as the press. It is no wonder, really, as the hotel is perfect in so many ways! Take a look at this list to see what reputable entities have to say about the hotel:

• Conde Nast Hot List 2005
• Chosen by Conde Naste as one of the best new hotels in the world under $200
• Most desirable hotel bed linen in the world Wallpaper magazine
• Winner of the 2007 UNESCO Award of Distinction for cultural heritage conservation
• Selected by The Australian Travel Magazine as “ one of our top five places in the world to chill and relax”

Conde Nast has spoken – no need for further questions, don’t you think? Most desirable bed linen? Count me in! And of course, to be the recipient of such an award from UNESCO speaks volumes.

The hotel is housed in a piece of property dating back to the 17th century, ensuring guests of a stay steeped in history. It is reminiscent of what colonial Ceylon used to be and at the same time showcases the chic modern side of the culture. The hotel has a total of 11 rooms and suites, all of which are quite spacious. Indeed, many a traveler has described their rooms as enormous. In this day and age where chain hoteliers put such a high premium on space, the size of Galle Fort Hotel’s rooms is very much welcome. The design and décor of the rooms are a mix of Sri Lankan and Chinese – very minimal but extremely relaxing.

One of the best features of the hotel is the pool, which is in the courtyard. It really is a simple pool, not very large, but the whole setting is very serene. I doubt that you would want to leave once you find a shady spot to relax in!

Of course, I have to talk about the food, which has garnered so much praise from its guests. The food that the hotel serves is mainly Chinese and Thai, although chef Christopher Ong has quite a few tricks up his sleeve. One thing is for sure – you will have all the fresh seafood that you want! For cocktails, wines, teas, and other drinks, the front verandah is the place to be. It is also open to outside guests, making it the perfect meeting place for a lot of people.

If you’re looking for a quiet and luxurious place to stay – at an affordable price – then you can’t go wrong with the Galle Fort Hotel. For more information, visit the Galle Fort Hotel web site.

“The most companionable of all festivals”- that’s how Michael Morpugo describes the Galle Literary Festival. This award winning author of children’s books definitely knows what he is talking about, and this is just one more reason to try and join the host of literary enthusiasts in the festival next month. It’s not just Mr. Morpugo who has expressed his praise about the festival. The well respected Harpers Bazaar has also dubbed it “No.1 Literary Festival in world.” And this was done right after the festival’s debut a mere 2 years ago!

What are the features of the Galle Literary Festival? The general idea is to encourage intellectual and artistic interaction between respected writers from all around the world. People who may not have had the chance to get published but have a passion for literature are also welcomed with open arms.

The festival is jam packed with talks, debates, workshops, and other activities that will keep participants busy all throughout the five days. Renowned authors will be sharing stories that they have written about Sri Lanka, giving participants an insider’s glimpse. Aspiring children’s books authors may also take part in a workshop where Sandhya Rao will talk about writing in this genre. Other talks will revolve around fables, fairy tales, poetry, and more.

One particularly interesting workshop will be given by Lal Medawattegedera on the 29th of January – the Young Adults’ Writing Workshop. This is open to people aged 15 – 25. I think it’s a perfect “start of the year gift” for teenagers who are into writing. In this day and age, where reading and writing is not always considered “cool” anymore, exposure to a workshop like this can prove to be valuable.

Another excellent reason to join the festival is the fact that they are featuring crime writing (including graphic novels and pulp fiction) for the first time. The festival organizers are known for experimenting with various genres, and it really is exciting to see how the participants will respond to this potentially controversial development. I’ll go out on a limb and say that this is probably going to be a successful move!

The Galle Literary Festival will run from 28 January to 1 February 2010, and if you cannot afford to pay for passes that will allow access to every single event, you can still enjoy what Galle has to offer. This Sri Lankan city is located about 119km south of Colombo and is actually the fourth largest in the country. Galle is also the capital of the Southern Province.

There are a lot of attractions and activities that you can see and do in Galle. The Galle Fort is definitely a must-visit – it was built in 1988 and has been nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can also visit numerous temples and churches. Aside from these, popular destinations include tea estates and markets (be prepared for a chaotic but exciting experience). Rainforest treks, scuba diving, and other activities are also popular.

Mark your calendars – the Galle Literary Festival should be in your travel plans next year!

Fort Printers is an unassumingly stylish hotel. Unpretentious and quietly chic, it is for people wanting to feel like they are staying at a town villa and yet still be spoiled with a hotel’s services. If you stroll down Galle Fort’s popular Pedlar street (great shopping), you’ll find the Fort Printers at the corner of Church street- you would immediately think the elegantly restored building was the home of some lucky expatriate and not a small luxury hotel!

There is a definite air of nostalgia here, with the black vintage car parked out front (seemingly indefinitely) and the magnificently authentic printing machine in the entrance hall, seen from the street- to name a few. Although I used the word “luxury” in the previous paragraph, I wouldn’t necessarily say the Fort Printers‘ five suites was that- if you think of that word in terms if mod cons, designer toiletries or fancy mattresses seen in most top hotels in Asia these days. It is still very comfortable in an uncluttered boutique sense and smartly furnished with select antiques and interesting handmade crafts. The cozy library and intimate lap pool area are also great additions for tour-weary guests.

As a base for getting to know Galle Fort and it’s environs, Fort Printers would be an excellent choice because of it’s ideal location close to the shops, restaurants and picturesque ramparts. The food is also known to be excellent (try the delicious Mezze menu) and considering what you get for the reasonable rate of around $120 a night (low season), including tax, you could be tempted to stay longer than planned. Or better yet, invite some friends and rent out the entire hotel for a mere $600. Another good option would be to book the “Beach-Fort” promotion, which combines a stay at it’s sister hotel, the lovely Frangipani Tree for a very affordable price, including breakfast and transfers.

This fabulous beachside property 7km from Galle certainly lives up to its name. Ambalama means ‘resting place’ in Sinhalese and it is an ideal villa in which to live out dreams of a relaxing tropical holiday. The construction of the villa celebrates its exotic location, seamlessly merging the indoors with the out. Highlighted by many fascinating antique pillars and doorways this villa may takes its inspiration from Bali, but its warm hospitality and glorious setting confirms its authenticity as Sri Lankan.

Ambalama offers plenty of luxe for the traveller. Its four equitable bedrooms are highlighted by comfortable four-poster beds adorned with the highest thread count linen to be found in Sri Lanka. With multiple sets of doors opening onto the front sea view verandah, louvers provide the rooms with enough of a breeze for you to hardly ever need to use the air conditioning or fan, although both are available. With two of the modern bathrooms featuring an enclosed open air shower surrounded by a soothing tropical garden, this is barefoot luxury at its best.

The main living area of Ambalama is an airy space with cool floors, high roof and a scattering of antique furniture and local art. To one end is a cosy lounge area whilst at the other is a circular dining table for eight, overlooking the pool, garden and sea. The villa is perfectly convivial and suits many group arrangements; it can easily be transformed from relaxed and intimate into something more formal depending upon the occasion. The villa has a full complement of staff, so all you have to do is ask.

The Balinese tiled swimming pool is one of the villa’s best assets. Located just footsteps from the bedrooms and living areas, the pool has an especially inviting ledge to one side from where you can sit in the sunshine and admire the view. Surrounded by a wide sun drenched terrace dotted with loungers, it is ideal for alfresco wining and dining at any time of the day. Ambalama is totally private and to the front is a large grassy lawn with access to the pristine stretch of beach just below.

One particular highlight of Ambalama is its cuisine. A lot of effort has gone into finding a great chef to create cuisine worth staying in for. Indeed, the new chef at Ambalama has worked in two of the island’s five star hotels and designed a menu that amply reflects this. From succulent seafood to sensational salads and wicked desserts, there is plenty to satisfy even the most demanding guest. And, whilst you might be enjoying five star cuisine, remember you’re not paying for it; guests only pay for the cost of the ingredients. Perfect! Three courses it is then.

The quoted rates for Ambalama Villa range from $600 per night in the value season to $900 per night in the peak season. We suggest that you contact the very efficient and friendly Tai via the website contact form.

Crispy on the edges, smooth in the center with a variety of lovely (and spicy) fillings to choose from, Hoppers are, hands down, my favourite Sri Lankan dish. These delightful pancake-style dishes are only found in Sri Lanka, and although there are different varieties you can have for breakfast, lunch, or even dinner, many locals have them for breakfast on a weekend, when they can take out their hopper pans and make them at home.

Hoppers (also called Appa) are another food native to Sri Lanka, served mainly for breakfast or lunch and often accompanied by Lunu miris, a fiery hot mix of red onions and spices. Hoppers are made from a fermented batter of rice flour, coconut milk and a dash of palm toddy, which lends a sour flavor and fermentation ability. If toddy is not available, yeast is often used. The batter is left to rise, then cooked in a hemispherical wok-like pan. There are many types of hoppers including egg hoppers, milk hoppers, and sweeter varieties like vanduappa and paniappa.

One can find hoppers all around Sri Lanka, from the street shops, restaurants, your hotel, or even the mobile hopper man, who would have them in a cart attached to his bicycle. Many hotels, like the Hilton, even hold Hopper Festivals, where their chefs put on a display of making an assortment of the little delights. The Hilton in Colombo also serves hoppers at it’s popular restaurant, the Curry Leaf, a pretty outdoor venue. In Galle, I had egg hoppers for breakfast at the Amangalla, which were excellent. Served with a delicious coconut sambal and other chillies, it was one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever had!

Below is a photo of a string hopper, which is light and good served with a curry. A must-try!

Upon arrival through Kahanda Kanda’s unassuming gates, you have to admit that you have indeed entered a very beautiful place. The tea bushes are everywhere and the buildings are all done tastefully, seamlessly blending into it’s natural surroundings. The bright orange wall and tower were a great touch, giving a sophisticated yet ethnic feel to what would otherwise be like so many other places in the Galle area.

Kahanda Kanda rather beautifully translates into yellow moon mountain, and is a chic boutique hotel in a working tea plantation. Once the home of Englishman and interior designer George Cooper, this hilltop retreat has been receiving quite a lot of praise as being one of the top small hotels in the area.

We were welcomed to what seemed to be the bar/sitting room area and a very nice waiter (who may have very well been the famous headwaiter Henry, we can’t be sure) offered us drinks, but as the place was virtually empty except for a loud couple, we decided to proceed to the dining area in the pavilion adjacent. Through a very attractive (but lethal if you had more a few) watery walkway we went, and we were seated and served our Bloody Marys after a longish wait. The drinks were fine, but not quite as good as Charlie Hulse’s!

We were presented the set menu (around $20 a head), which looked perfectly decent:

Curried soup
Green Papaya and Chicken Salad
Choice of puddings (we chose the Coconut & Orange flan)

The service was on the slow side, but no complaints there as the place had such a relaxed and peaceful feel anyway that anything faster would have been irritating. While waiting, we enjoyed the views from the restaurant, overlooking lush jungle and part of Koggala Lake which were absolutely breathtaking.

The food arrived, and the curried vegetable soup was creamy and flavourful. The bread served alongside was homemade and delicious, but the butter (or was it margarine) was on the rancid side. The green papaya salad was plated well, and certainly was tasty, but much too hot and spicy. One of our lunch companions couldn’t eat it at all! Now I can eat a spicy curry with gusto, but I had to agree with him on this one. We all enjoyed the pudding of coconut flan though, which helped put out the fire!

Our verdict? The setting is outstanding, the service good, the food could be better (given the price – but then again, this is indicative of many Galle hotels I’m afraid). We only peeked into the rooms, which looked smart and comfortable. We’ll definitely be staying here soon! Prices start at just $230 in the low season and numerous special packages are available now.

One of the best things about the Dutch House, is that it is more like a graceful colonial home than it is a hotel. A short walk (or drive, in a charming vintage car no less) up the high Dickson Road, The Dutch House is perched on a tranquil space overlooking Galle Fort, in close proximity, yet set apart from it’s more lively sister hotel, The Sun House.

At first sight, though, one could come to the conclusion that the simple architecture and “no-frills” look of faded yellow ochre (again, unlike it’s flirty sister in white, The Sun House) could be less than welcoming. But once you enter your suite, you are thankfully proven wrong. Far from being austere, the huge four-poster beds are invitingly draped with mosquito netting, with the antique wooden doors opening up to the landscaped gardens or croquet lawn, definitely adding a feeling of warmth and relaxation.

Also called Doornburg, the Dutch House’s origins go as far back as 1712, making it one of the most well-preserved historical houses in the area. But that’s not its only claim to fame. After the Tsunami in 2004, pop superstar Sting called the Dutch House his home in Galle, obviously preferring the understated elegance and privacy of the old merchant’s house compared to other hotels in the area. With just four suites (Sting stayed in the enormous, cathedral-ceiling Ballroom, pictured above) in the property, each one has a style of it’s own, yet all of them carrying the same classic colonial design, filled with fine antiques, richly colored tapestries and fine silk fabrics. The bathrooms are large, pale and spare, simply fitted out with not much more than a bathtub, claw-foot if you prefer. Perfect for a soak after a long day exploring the area of Galle, which is just a stone’s throw away from the hotel.

Another wonderful reason to stay at the Dutch House are the magnificent views, perhaps the best in all of Galle. Whether you are seated at your suite’s veranda for afternoon tea, or on a lounger by the simply gorgeous infinity pool, you’ll be spoiled by the views, ranging from the lush jungle to the ocean, to the picturesque town below- which can be even more stunning in the evenings. One warning- while many find it wonderfully atmospheric, others find the sounds amplified by a loudspeaker from the local Mosque a bit irritating

Included in your suite’s rate of $320++ is breakfast, which can be English, Continental or Sri Lankan (hoppers!) and is conveniently served at any time of day, anywhere you wish. While light lunches and snacks (consisting of pan-Asian cuisine using delicate flavours like tamarind and coconut cream) are served around the outdoor areas, dinner is usually taken next door at the Sun House, whose chef is renowned as one of the best in all of Galle.

As we said, this hotel is the ideal choice for those seeking comfort and privacy in elegant surroundings, but it is also ideal for a large group of friends or family. Indeed, many have chosen the Dutch House for weddings, parties and other special occasions, and because the property is so special, it is not hard to see why.

To make a booking, we recommend doing it directly through the Dutch House’s website, where you’ll find the right email and contact information. If you have any questions, or are planning a special occasion, it would be a good idea to contact the very efficient and delightfully flamboyant Henri Tatham, manager of the hotel. It may also be useful to know that the Dutch House is part of The Tabrobane Collection, a group of luxe properties around the country owned by Geoffrey Dobbs, each one fabulous in its own way and if you like their particular style- it’s perhaps a good way to plan your itinerary around whilst in Sri Lanka.

**photo courtesy of Sri Lanka in Style**

If you find yourself in the bustling capital city of Colombo and are looking for a charming place to stay for a few nights, and are looking for something a little larger and more anonymous than our previous recommendations of two “boutique hotels“- Park Street and Casa Colombo, then the Galle Face Hotel is our pick. It is easily the most interesting and historical large hotel in the city, and is well worth a stay. Oozing with style and elegance from a bygone era, the Galle Face was built in 1864 during the British colonial era and throughout it’s colorful history has played host to celebrities, literary legends, royalty and leaders from all over the world. Princess Alexandra of Denmark once said:

“The peacefulness and generosity encountered at the Galle Face Hotel cannot be matched”

It’s spectacular seaside location, right by the Indian Ocean, sets the Galle Face apart from the rest, as the hotel’s restaurants and rooms enjoy some of best sea views in Colombo. In the new Regency Wing, for instance, guests can sleep in wonderful “Oceanic Suites“, which have three large windows on all sides and include an in-room jacuzzi.

The hotel has two distinct wings, the Classic Wing, and the Regency Wing, which was just recently renovated. Although the Classic Wing certainly has it’s own old fashioned charm and very low prices (from just $55 for a standard room to $130 for a suite), some guests have complained of the lack of space and that the decor was somewhat tired. We agree!! So while the rooms and suites in the Regency Wing, which are newly renovated and much more comfortable, are more expensive- they are definitely preferable and better value for money.

The Galle Face has a lovely poolside terrace, which at night is charmingly lit up- making it the perfect place for sunset cocktails. For dinner, guests have the choice of four venues, for sea views or candlelit dinners, there are the Sea Spray and the Verandah restaurants to try. For a fine dining experience, there is the smart 1864 restaurant, and for drinks pre or post dinner, the paneled Wine Bar is worth a visit to sample their extensive vintages, cheese and cigars.

During the day, the saltwater pool (the largest one of it’s kind in the city) overlooking the sea, is the ideal spot to relax after a busy day’s shopping or sightseeing, as is the Spa, which is a 20,000 square foot space of pure tranquility.

As you enter through its doors a warm sense of well-being will overwhelm you, and the graceful architecture, soothing surroundings, relaxing water elements, traditional timber floors and nature-friendly furnishings complemented by soft calming music will set the ambiance for you to enjoy the ultimate in pampering.

To book a room at Galle Face Hotel, for once we recommend that you contact an agent rather then the hotel directly, as we have found that the hotel rack rates are hugely discounted at companies like Red Dot Tours.

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In a previous post, we gave our top accommodation pick for Colombo: Park Street. If that happens to be full or you fancy something a little different, here is our second top pick for a boutique hotel in Colombo to suit the luxury traveler: Casa Colombo. This hotel is very conveniently and centrally located down a private lane just off the Galle Road.

Casa Colombo is a stunningly restored 200 year old Moorish mansion originally built by one of the wealthiest Indian trading families of the time. Combining old world charm with contemporary design, Casa is a tribute to the creative talents of its owner: Lalin Jinasena who innovatively custom designed everything from the cutlery and crockery to the furniture and fabrics- solely using craftsmen and materials from Sri Lanka. With no reception desk, Casa Domos personally look after you during your entire stay by taking care of any needs that may arise be it getting you a poolside drink, taking you on a city tour or sending an important business fax.

While Casa Colombo retains the fabulous Moorish architectural style that includes charming mosaic floors, it is unconventionally infused with an edgy personalized design that blends contemporary furniture, vibrant colors and the very latest technology. Space is an added luxury in each of the highly individualized suites while perhaps the most striking feature of the hotel is the pink mosaic swimming pool that could easily be the only one of its kind in the world! Glass and cement canopied day beds beside it come with two tune selectors for chilling in the tropical sun ideally with a glass of the CASA Nova signature cocktail.

A fabulous choice of restaurants and bars for such a small hotel means that you get to dine out every night, however Colombo’s finest are all at your doorstep. With such a central location in the capital- Casa has easy access to the city’s shopping and cultural attractions, while the hotel has a private spot on Mt Lavinia Beach for the exclusive use of Casa guests.

There are twelve suites all lavishly restored. Our favorite suite (if you’re feeling flush!) is the luxurious Royal Suite with its jacuzzi in the balcony- which will set you back about $400. Alternatively, book the Ebaneza Corporate Suite (which is the most spacious of its kind) for approx. $250. You can get one of the smaller suites for around $150, but then if you’re looking to travel Sri Lanka on a budget- you’re reading the wrong blog

As usual, we recommend contacting the hotel directly to book a room to cut out any middle men- they’ll appreciate it and are more likely to give you a better deal or at the very least take special care of you!

]]> http://www.ceylonluxury.com/2009/04/casa-colombo-old-world-charm-in-colombo/feed/ 0 http://www.ceylonluxury.com/2009/03/barefoot-uniquely-handmade-and-eco-friendly-shopping/ http://www.ceylonluxury.com/2009/03/barefoot-uniquely-handmade-and-eco-friendly-shopping/#comments Mon, 02 Mar 2009 07:36:06 +0000 Antonella http://www.ceylonluxury.com/?p=194

Whenever I come back from a trip to Sri Lanka, my family and friends have now come to expect something special from Barefoot – a wonderful shop of rural handweavers that make and sell the most delightful toys, home ware, clothes and art. In fact, last Christmas we gave Barefoot presents to nearly everybody – lovely hardbound notebooks and photo albums covered in a rainbow of patterns, chic hand-painted candlesticks and cushion covers, brightly colored dolls and teddies, rucksacks in the amusing shape of fish and elephants for the children (which will definitely last a lifetime) and much more- all so unique and special.

The things at Barefoot are certainly not cheap, and the reason for this is that they are all painstakingly handmade and of high quality. From the dyes used, to the weaving process, (Barefoot admonishes use of machinery), Barefoot does it all themselves and what’s interesting is that the work is not done in a factory but from a cottage industry where the people take the work home and do it in their own time.

“….We teach skills & assert no time pressure on our hand weavers or needlewomen…they are not cheap substitutes for machinery… which is why our things are expensive, and will last a lifetime…”

The company was founded by Barbara Sansoni, who has also been designing there for the past 30 years. A textile designer, artist and writer, Barbara started Barefoot in 1958 with the hope of helping under-privileged Sri Lankan women by teaching them skills like dying, weaving and needlework. Today, the company is a model in sustainability and creativity- the workers earn a good wage so that they are able to support their families with dignity, the materials used are natural and non-toxic and the designers are encouraged to stretch their creativity and be innovative in what they create.

The main Barefoot shop in Colombo has a Cafe and Gallery where the calamari pasta and chocolate cake is not to be missed!. The Gallery also plays host to a number of interesting exhibits throughout the year. There are also smaller Barefoot outlets found in Galle, at 41 Pedler Street and at the Lighthouse Hotel.

BAREFOOT, 706 Galle Road, Colombo 3, Sri Lanka. Tel. +94 11 2580114

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