The Buckingham Place in Sri Lanka may sound like old-world grand but it is actually the opposite being contemporary in design. This is not surprising since the hotel is named not after the Buckingham Palace, but after owner/manager Nick Buckingham. Although the hotel is not as grand as the palace itself, it does not mean that it does not deliver in terms of luxury.

A tuktuk at the entrance of the Buckingham Place

The hotel is a pretty exclusive place, featuring just 11 bedrooms and suites all with its own balcony/veranda, bathtub (only 2 rooms do not have a tub), 6ft x 6ft double beds with sprung mattresses and high quality linen, mini-fridges, and picnic menus. Choice suites also feature open air bathrooms and a satellite TV.

Open air bathroom in one of the suites

The atmosphere of the Buckingham Place is also truly tranquil, appearing idyllic even, with a view of Rekawa Beach’s lagoon. The beach right in front of the hotel, is however, more pretty than swimmer-friendly due to big waves and unpredictable currents. Despite this, swimmers need not go too far to get wet since the hotel has its own pool. If you wish to swim on the beach though, you’ll need to walk for about 15 minutes to get to a safer beach.

The beach

With the hotel getting rave reviews for excellent service, my only real beef about the hotel resort is that they have a 10 year-old and above policy, which means that it will be a full decade before our family will be welcome in the place. The policy is something that any guest who relishes the peace and quiet that only resort hotels like this provide, will truly appreciate.

Photos courtesy of the Buckingham Place

One of the best things about the Dutch House, is that it is more like a graceful colonial home than it is a hotel. A short walk (or drive, in a charming vintage car no less) up the high Dickson Road, The Dutch House is perched on a tranquil space overlooking Galle Fort, in close proximity, yet set apart from it’s more lively sister hotel, The Sun House.

At first sight, though, one could come to the conclusion that the simple architecture and “no-frills” look of faded yellow ochre (again, unlike it’s flirty sister in white, The Sun House) could be less than welcoming. But once you enter your suite, you are thankfully proven wrong. Far from being austere, the huge four-poster beds are invitingly draped with mosquito netting, with the antique wooden doors opening up to the landscaped gardens or croquet lawn, definitely adding a feeling of warmth and relaxation.

Also called Doornburg, the Dutch House‘s origins go as far back as 1712, making it one of the most well-preserved historical houses in the area. But that’s not its only claim to fame. After the Tsunami in 2004, pop superstar Sting called the Dutch House his home in Galle, obviously preferring the understated elegance and privacy of the old merchant’s house compared to other hotels in the area. With just four suites (Sting stayed in the enormous, cathedral-ceiling Ballroom, pictured above) in the property, each one has a style of it’s own, yet all of them carrying the same classic colonial design, filled with fine antiques, richly colored tapestries and fine silk fabrics. The bathrooms are large, pale and spare, simply fitted out with not much more than a bathtub, claw-foot if you prefer. Perfect for a soak after a long day exploring the area of Galle, which is just a stone’s throw away from the hotel.

Another wonderful reason to stay at the Dutch House are the magnificent views, perhaps the best in all of Galle. Whether you are seated at your suite’s veranda for afternoon tea, or on a lounger by the simply gorgeous infinity pool, you’ll be spoiled by the views, ranging from the lush jungle to the ocean, to the picturesque town below- which can be even more stunning in the evenings. One warning- while many find it wonderfully atmospheric, others find the sounds amplified by a loudspeaker from the local Mosque a bit irritating

Included in your suite’s rate of $320++ is breakfast, which can be English, Continental or Sri Lankan (hoppers!) and is conveniently served at any time of day, anywhere you wish. While light lunches and snacks (consisting of pan-Asian cuisine using delicate flavours like tamarind and coconut cream) are served around the outdoor areas, dinner is usually taken next door at the Sun House, whose chef is renowned as one of the best in all of Galle.

As we said, this hotel is the ideal choice for those seeking comfort and privacy in elegant surroundings, but it is also ideal for a large group of friends or family. Indeed, many have chosen the Dutch House for weddings, parties and other special occasions, and because the property is so special, it is not hard to see why.

To make a booking, we recommend doing it directly through the Dutch House’s website, where you’ll find the right email and contact information. If you have any questions, or are planning a special occasion, it would be a good idea to contact the very efficient and delightfully flamboyant Henri Tatham, manager of the hotel. It may also be useful to know that the Dutch House is part of The Tabrobane Collection, a group of luxe properties around the country owned by Geoffrey Dobbs, each one fabulous in its own way and if you like their particular style- it’s perhaps a good way to plan your itinerary around whilst in Sri Lanka.

**photo courtesy of Sri Lanka in Style**

Fort Printers is an unassumingly stylish hotel. Unpretentious and quietly chic, it is for people wanting to feel like they are staying at a town villa and yet still be spoiled with a hotel’s services. If you stroll down Galle Fort‘s popular Pedlar street (great shopping), you’ll find the Fort Printers at the corner of Church street- you would immediately think the elegantly restored building was the home of some lucky expatriate and not a small luxury hotel!

There is a definite air of nostalgia here, with the black vintage car parked out front (seemingly indefinitely) and the magnificently authentic printing machine in the entrance hall, seen from the street- to name a few. Although I used the word “luxury” in the previous paragraph, I wouldn’t necessarily say the Fort Printers‘ five suites was that- if you think of that word in terms if mod cons, designer toiletries or fancy mattresses seen in most top hotels in Asia these days. It is still very comfortable in an uncluttered boutique sense and smartly furnished with select antiques and interesting handmade crafts. The cozy library and intimate lap pool area are also great additions for tour-weary guests.

As a base for getting to know Galle Fort and it’s environs, Fort Printers would be an excellent choice because of it’s ideal location close to the shops, restaurants and picturesque ramparts. The food is also known to be excellent (try the delicious Mezze menu) and considering what you get for the reasonable rate of around $120 a night (low season), including tax, you could be tempted to stay longer than planned. Or better yet, invite some friends and rent out the entire hotel for a mere $600. Another good option would be to book the “Beach-Fort” promotion, which combines a stay at its sister hotel, the lovely Frangipani Tree for a very affordable price, including breakfast and transfers.

Image via Sri Lanka in Style

The Fortress Hotel is perhaps the grandest hotel in Sri Lanka of all. Owned by reputedly the richest family in Sri Lanka, it is part of the Per Aquum group of resorts, who also have a large presence in the Maldives and the Seychelles. The Fortress only opened its doors in 2007 and has certainly started with a bang, often being fully booked (especially for weddings and large functions) despite the negative news coming out of the Sri Lankan tourism industry.

The hotel is in a glorious location, set right on the Indian Ocean seaside and close to Koggala Lake, about a 20 minute drive from Galle. What sets apart the hotel from many of its competitors is not just its location, though, but its magnificent architecture and ambience, both outside and inside. We don’t often like to quote off a hotel’s own website, but in this case they have it spot on:

A hotel fashioned in the style of a powerful fortress. Rising next to the beach, the resort’s walls enclose verdant gardens and water features, a spa featuring Ayurvedic treatments, a freeflow swimming pool, wine cellar, restaurants, boutiques and exquisitely appointed rooms, lofts and residences. The resort’s architecture forges historic Dutch and Portuguese styles with the motifs of Sri Lanka.

There are 47 guest rooms, all stylishly decorated with a Colonial effect and Modern finish. There are five choices, each with its own different views and appeal: the fortress room, the beach room, the ocean room, the ocean loft and the residence. There is also a glorious spa: the Lime Spa, which specializes in traditional Ayurvedic treatments. And let’s not forget the culinary and gourmet aspects, be that the main restaurant lounge by the pool: Pepper; the modern cave for a fine glass of wine; Heat: where delicious tapas are served by the sea; a dedicated Tea section to enjoy Sri Lanka’s most famous export and the Sea Lounge where you are allowed to enjoy just one fruity cocktail too many!

Oh! and the main attraction itself: the most decadent and luxurious infinity swimming pool that one could hope for. Of course, all of this doesn’t come cheap. You’re not going to get a room for much less that $500 per night, although if you contact the hotel directly, they may give you 20% off if it’s during a quiet period.

We couldn’t recommend the Fortress Hotel more highly for those that want a luxury holiday in Sri Lanka!

After a long day shopping and soaking in the fascinating sights of Colombo, Havelock Place Bungalow is the perfect place to come back to. Its existence has always been a cherished secret to those ‘in the know’. Described by many guests as an oasis in a busy city, this elegant retreat tucked away down a quiet leafy cul-de-sac in the heart of the capital was in fact Colombo’s first boutique hotel and prides itself on its high standard of personalized service in a homely and comfortable setting. Built in the 1940s, the hotel consists of two bungalows, which have been cleverly combined and entwined within a landscaped tropical garden, that provide all modern conveniences within a charming colonial setting.

Having initially opened as an art gallery, fascinating paintings and prints still envelope the walls of the villa especially in the comfortable living room which, with its little library is the main social focal point to the property. Housing three suites and four standard rooms, each with their own courtyard or garden access, Havelock Place Bungalow has a surprisingly large garden full of flowering plants, shady trees, lush foliage and little ponds. A swimming pool and Jacuzzi is located beside an outdoor terrace with a little spot for sunbathing.

Being centrally located in the capital, Havelock Place Bungalow is the ideal place to rest at the start or end of your holiday, or as a base for exploring the exciting museums, historical sights, temples, parks and beaches that Colombo offers. There are many renowned restaurants close by while the villa is a perfect base for some last minute shopping at the end of your holiday.

The charming little hotel comprises seven comfortable and homely rooms – three suites and four standard rooms – each decorated and furnished in a different style with access to a private terrace or to the garden. Rooms come in different shapes and sizes but they are all stylishly decorated with genuine antiques including canopied four poster beds, interesting writing bureaus and wardrobes. Wi-Fi is available and all rooms have telephones. Each is air-conditioned and has en-suite bathrooms with hot water available throughout the day.

Havelock also offers excellent home cooked cuisine which has been consistently highly praised by past guests. Cooked by expert local chefs – under the supervision of Havelock’s owner Sharmala – who combine the freshest local ingredients with western cooking styles the result is a fusion of flavours that include Italian and Mediterranean specialities. The daily menu is written on a blackboard every day with choices of specials based on whichever ingredients were the freshest and best that morning when the chefs went to do the shopping. The fabulous selection of home-made ice creams and sorbets made by Sharmala should not be missed – we recommend you try the passion fruit sorbet. Delicious!

Meals may be served to you in the bistro-like restaurant or even out in the tropical garden. If you prefer to dine in your room or suite this can also be arranged – emphasis on personalized service is very important here. Breakfast consists of either western, Sri Lankan or Continental variations and along with the main meal dishes are all very reasonably priced. They also offer a good selection of imported wines.

The rates for accommodation range from $80 for a standard room and $130 for a suite. As usual, we recommend that you contact the hotel directly to make your booking.

Accreditation: Sri Lanka In Style

Crispy on the edges, smooth in the center with a variety of lovely (and spicy) fillings to choose from, Hoppers are, hands down, my favourite Sri Lankan dish. These delightful pancake-style dishes are only found in Sri Lanka, and although there are different varieties you can have for breakfast, lunch, or even dinner, many locals have them for breakfast on a weekend, when they can take out their hopper pans and make them at home.

Hoppers (also called Appa) are another food native to Sri Lanka, served mainly for breakfast or lunch and often accompanied by Lunu miris, a fiery hot mix of red onions and spices. Hoppers are made from a fermented batter of rice flour, coconut milk and a dash of palm toddy, which lends a sour flavor and fermentation ability. If toddy is not available, yeast is often used. The batter is left to rise, then cooked in a hemispherical wok-like pan. There are many types of hoppers including egg hoppers, milk hoppers, and sweeter varieties like vanduappa and paniappa.

One can find hoppers all around Sri Lanka, from the street shops, restaurants, your hotel, or even the mobile hopper man, who would have them in a cart attached to his bicycle. Many hotels, like the Hilton, even hold Hopper Festivals, where their chefs put on a display of making an assortment of the little delights. The Hilton in Colombo also serves hoppers at it’s popular restaurant, the Curry Leaf, a pretty outdoor venue. In Galle, I had egg hoppers for breakfast at the Amangalla, which were excellent. Served with a delicious coconut sambal and other chillies, it was one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever had!

Photo via Pragathi Cafe

The gardens at Lunuganga are a rare tropical Eden created by Geoffrey Bawa, Sri Lanka’s most influential architect. And what started out as an abandoned rubber estate, is now one of the most unique places to stay in the country. Over a span of 50 years, Bawa lovingly made this enchanting house and it’s gardens his spiritual home, which is known today as his most personal life’s work. The intriguing estate in the coastal town of Bentota has interesting history of evolution:

Bawa never kept a systematic record of the evolution of the garden and its chronology is now hard to unravel. One fascinating diary of events is provided by a large leather-bound visitors’ book containing a plethora of photographs and sketches as well as signatures and greetings: in 1965 Ulrik Plesner reflects on the problems of the Hilton project; in 1966 Ismeth Raheem records having seen over forty species of bird during one afternoon; in 1973 Donald Friend leaves a doodle of his museum on Bali; in 1997 President Kumaratunga approves the designs of her new Official Residence; and in 1998 Prince Charles drops in for tea.

Perhaps the most memorable visit of all, however, was on 3 January 1988 when a friend called Ray Wijewardene flew down from Colombo in a microlight and, misjudging his landing, crashed into the main roof of the bungalow.

Today, magazines like GQ and Conde Nast Travel have called the property one of the best “boutique hotels” in the country, but what makes it so special is not its luxurious edge, but its historical significance, its tranquility, its unique artistic temperament – both refined and wild.

Lunuganga is an artist’s retreat for most of the year, where The Bawa Trust invites selected artists to stay and soak in the inspiration.

But even if you’re not an artist, you can get a taste of the Bawa experience from December to April, when the chic Lunuganga resort is open for a brief spell to the public, now run by Geoffrey Dobbs, the man behind many of Sri Lanka’s best boutique hotels. The gardens are rather large in 25 acres of lush greenery in the Italian style, owing to the years Bawa spent in Italy, which they say, led him to dream of creating a civilized Italian garden in the wilderness of Sri Lanka’s coast.

Guests staying here will delight in the unexpected delights the gardens have to offer – from romantic loggias and courtyards, to secret areas, pretty ponds and stunning views – of jungles, paddies and a lake – all perfect for picnics or quiet contemplation. While the outdoor spaces merge with indoor spaces, the overall style of the accommodations are startlingly simple – probably so as not to deter from the glory of the gardens.

Still, it is done with the utmost style, and together with the superb food and drink (try the bracingly delicious Lunuganga Sour and the comfort food prepared by non other than Bawa’s cook Catherine), the six ensuite bedrooms spread out from the main house to Bawa’s studio, to the house on Cinnamon Hill, are all elegantly and comfortably furnished, with private butlers at your disposal.

Lunuganga is two hours drive from Colombo and prices start at just £155. For more information or to book your stay, contact the Geoffrey Bawa Trust or various travel companies like Sri Lanka in Style. But before you do, here’s something by David Robson who wrote Geoffrey Bawa: The Complete Works:

In 1948 as Sri Lanka was shaking off the shackles of empire, a young man dreamt of making a garden. Today the garden is in its prime but, after the passage of over fifty monsoons, Sri Lanka has lost its innocence and the young man has grown old. As he sits in his wheelchair on the terrace and watches the sun setting across the lake it may be that he reflects on his achievement. Perhaps the garden had simply been waiting there for him to discover it beneath a canopy of jungle?

But this is a work of art, not of nature: it is the contrivance of a single mind and a hundred pairs of hands working together with nature to produce something that is ‘supernatural’. What should become of this magic world? Ought it to be frozen or preserved? Ought it to become a national monument maintained by bureaucrats and trampled over by thousands of souvenir-hunting tourists? Better by far to let the jungle swallow it up than to see it turned into a travesty of its former self.

For a lot of people, when Sri Lanka or Ceylon is mentioned, tea is the first thing that comes to mind. You can’t blame them, for Ceylon tea is some of the best to be found in the entire world. Indeed, I know some people who will not settle for anything less than Ceylon tea.

If you are a tea enthusiast, then Ceylon should be at the top of your list of travel destinations. Naturally, you would expect to find accommodations that highlight this national specialty. If we’re to rely on the opinions of experts and seasoned travelers, you will not go wrong in choosing the Tea Factory Hotel. The name itself tells you what to expect – what you see is what you get.

The Tea Factory Hotel is a hotel located in the premises of a tea factory. It is as authentic as you can get, really. The edifice used to be a tea factory, and the current hotel bedrooms used to be the areas where tea leaves were withered. For those unfamiliar with the tea making process, withering is the first step in manufacturing black tea. Once the tea leaves (still green) are picked, they are delivered to the factory to be withered. There is no doubt about it – even in your very room, you can feel the genuineness of the tea factory experience in this hotel.

The Tea Factory Hotel is located in Nuwara Eliya, a town about 160 kilometers from Colombo. It is set at 2,200 meters above sea level, making the conditions perfect for growing tea. The hotel is classified as a 4-star hotel, making sure that guests enjoy the luxury and pampering that they are yearning for. There are 57 rooms in the hotel, 4 of which are deluxe. All of the rooms are heated or cooled, depending on the needs and preferences of the guests. Rooms are also equipped with satellite TV, phones with IDD access, and Internet ports. For a relaxing bath after a long day of rambling around the estate, the attached bathrooms are equipped with bathtubs and showers (with hot water, naturally).

Within the hotel, there is a small tea factory, which is open for the use of guests. An experience that you must not miss is picking your own tea leaves from outside of the hotel and then turning them over to the factory for processing. At the end of the whole process, you may enjoy a cup (or two) of tea made from the very leaves that you picked up!

Around the estate, guests may enjoy the ambiance of an authentic tea plantation. You will certainly enjoy interacting with the plantation workers, who find it a pleasure to share their craft with others. There are also natural springs around the area. The best time to visit this area is from March to May, which are the hottest months of the year. Be warned, though, that April usually draws in crowds of people yearning for the authentic Ceylon tea experience.

When it comes to luxury and pampering, you probably won’t find anything that can beat what Heritance Kandalama has to offer. This hotel is located in an area which has been dubbed as the Cultural Triangle of Sri Lanka. With five UNESCO World Heritage Sites located nearby, the moniker is but understandable. Heritance Kandalama, the hotel, itself is hailed by many as an architectural masterpiece attributed to Geoffrey Bawa.

The idea behind the whole complex is for it to blend as seamlessly as possible with the amazing natural formations in the area. The hotel is situated in between two natural rock formations and is designed so that it resembles the wings of a bird spread out in flight. With its size – an astounding 1.8 kilometers from one end to another – one might think that it is impossible for the edifice to blend with nature. However, the opposite is true: one look and you will wonder at just how natural everything seems to be! Even more amazing is the design itself, which allows the natural waters from the mountains to flow underneath the building, which is raised using platforms and columns. One should not be surprised to find out that animals range freely underneath the building as well.

The environment-conscious visitor will love the Heritance Kandalama for all its efforts to conserve energy. It has a very comprehensive program geared towards saving energy. The hotel makes use of auto-power controls, energy efficient lighting systems, and solar energy to heat the water supply. More so, the hotel does NOT make use of surface water to meet its needs. The water supply is a mixture of deep well water (using tubes going as deep as 200 feet) and rainwater.

For the ultimate pampering experience, one will not go wrong with the Six Senses Spa, which has won numerous awards from all over the world. The philosophy of the spa focuses on the five senses – finding the perfect balance among them. Think of a pyramid with the base constituted of sight, sound, and touch; and taste and smell constituting the middle portion; for the apex, think of a symbolism of the entire sensory experience.

The Six Senses Spa follows ancient Asian traditions geared towards rejuvenating the mind, body, and soul. They make use of indigenous herbs as well as tropical fruits and natural oils. Combined with steam, scrubs, massages, and other techniques, these herbs, fruits, and oils, are certain to please any visitor.

While a visitor would probably be more than content to spend time at the spa and lounge around the premises relaxing, the hotel also offers other activities to engage the active guest. There are three swimming pools – each of which offers a unique attraction. The Infinity Pool blends with Kandalama Lake. The Nature Pool shares the same bedrock which the hotel is built upon. The Rashmi Pool is the largest pool in the hotel and is naturally warmed by the sun.

Indeed, the Heritance Kandalama is the ideal place to go for a period of total relaxation.

The autumn forecast is definitely hot in Colombo this year, with the upcoming World Spice Festival to take place in November. This festive international event will run from November 6th-14th, and based on the success of the past few years (it first started in 2005), visitors and residents will be treated to a lively, fun and definitely delicious week of all things spice.

Celebrity chefs will be flying in from around the world, showcasing their culinary talents from venues around the city – many doing week long festivals of cooking and competing at top hotels and restaurants. The food to look forward to? Cuban American, Moroccan, Arabian, Italian, Spanish, Portugese, Szechuan, Cantonese, Seafood, Thai, Indonesian Balinese, Korean, Malaysian, Singapore, Japanese, Indian, Pakistan and Sri Lankan specialties. Wow! And there’s more- a Sri Lanka Crab promotion and spice ice cream. Now that I’d love to try, while I enjoy viewing the Spice Painting competition.

For the first few days of the event, organizers are holding a public “Global Spice Food Village” from 6 to 8th November. At the Galle Face hotel Green you can expect a flurry of smart outdoor activities, and an exotic Spice Bazaar is open nightly on the banks of Beira Lake.

This year, participating hotels, cafes and restaurants at the “Global Spice Food Village” will be Hilton Colombo, Galle Face Hotel, Galadari, Cinnamon Lakeside (formerly Trans Asia), Cinnamon Grand, Taj Samudra, Ceylon Continental, Holiday Inn, Mount Lavinia, Waters Edge, Raja Bojun, Siam House, The Mango Tree, Sizzle Grill, Regina Margharita and Nihon Bashi.

For more information, contact the hotels above participating or the organizers of the event, the Sri Lanka Tourist Development Authority .