Fort Printers is an unassumingly stylish hotel. Unpretentious and quietly chic, it is for people wanting to feel like they are staying at a town villa and yet still be spoiled with a hotel’s services. If you stroll down Galle Fort‘s popular Pedlar street (great shopping), you’ll find the Fort Printers at the corner of Church street- you would immediately think the elegantly restored building was the home of some lucky expatriate and not a small luxury hotel!

There is a definite air of nostalgia here, with the black vintage car parked out front (seemingly indefinitely) and the magnificently authentic printing machine in the entrance hall, seen from the street- to name a few. Although I used the word “luxury” in the previous paragraph, I wouldn’t necessarily say the Fort Printers‘ five suites was that- if you think of that word in terms if mod cons, designer toiletries or fancy mattresses seen in most top hotels in Asia these days. It is still very comfortable in an uncluttered boutique sense and smartly furnished with select antiques and interesting handmade crafts. The cozy library and intimate lap pool area are also great additions for tour-weary guests.

As a base for getting to know Galle Fort and it’s environs, Fort Printers would be an excellent choice because of it’s ideal location close to the shops, restaurants and picturesque ramparts. The food is also known to be excellent (try the delicious Mezze menu) and considering what you get for the reasonable rate of around $120 a night (low season), including tax, you could be tempted to stay longer than planned. Or better yet, invite some friends and rent out the entire hotel for a mere $600. Another good option would be to book the “Beach-Fort” promotion, which combines a stay at its sister hotel, the lovely Frangipani Tree for a very affordable price, including breakfast and transfers.

Image via Sri Lanka in Style

What a name- the Last House?! This enchanting villa is so named (only in Ceylon!) as it is the famous Geoffrey Bawa‘s last architectural masterpiece, if not his grandest. The Last House is located on the south coastline near Tangalle, a long six hour drive from Colombo- so we do recommend you break up the journey on your way. The villa is positioned on an idyllic strip of land with a lagoon on one side and long white sand beach on the other.

Geoffrey Bawa perhaps needs no introduction to those are familiar with Sri Lankan cultural history, renowned for his mix of eclectic and modern architectural styles. The layout of this, his last project, is shaped like a horse-shoe, with kitchen, living rooms and courtyard bedrooms surrounding the idyllic swimming pool on three sides.

The advantage of this design is that while the various verandas, dining and sitting rooms are well-suited to social occasions, the property also offers privacy to friends or generations of a family. At the back of the main building there is a lovingly-tended garden with an expansive stretch of lawn leading down to the beach.

There are four double bedrooms with en suite bathrooms, as well as a twin and a single that share a bathroom. Bedrooms are beautifully furnished, airy and light. The rooms can comfortably accommodate up to 11 guests.

Master Bedroom: situated on the upper floor with a balcony overlooking the pool and the sea beyond, this is an exquisite suite furnished with a king size bed. The ensuite bathroom has a Victorian bathtub and shower.

Family Room: Located upstairs and has twin beds with an attached second room with both sharing one bathroom.

Turquoise Room: Located on the ground floor opening out to the gardens and the sea beyond, this is a spacious room with a private garden and ensuite bathroom. The room is furnished with a king size bed.

White Room: Situated on the ground floor next to the Turquoise room, this also has sea views and a private garden.

The living and dining areas overlook the 10-meter swimming pool. The interiors are tastefully designed with a mix of antiques and contemporary furniture, local art and artifacts. The many courtyards, verandas and balconies offer much privacy and many secluded spaces for guests to relax in. Local rice and curries and western dishes are served according to guest’s wishes in the gardens, the main dining room or in your own private courtyard or balcony.

As Flee Winter says quite rightly:

“Some may feel a little isolated this far round the coast, so it is important to bring company and entertainment with you. The Last House is absolutely perfect for family gathering and friendly reunions. No local restaurants or gift shops to pop out to.“

There is a full complement of staff, including an excellent chef. Unlike most villas, the Last House is sold on an “all-inclusive” basis with a per person fee charged each day for three meals and all your beverages, including house wine Prices come in at around $1,000 per night for the whole villa and in this case we recommend booking directly with the villa.

Image via Sri Lanka in Style

Upon arrival through Kahanda Kanda’s unassuming gates, you have to admit that you have indeed entered a very beautiful place. The tea bushes are everywhere and the buildings are all done tastefully, seamlessly blending into it’s natural surroundings. The bright orange wall and tower were a great touch, giving a sophisticated yet ethnic feel to what would otherwise be like so many other places in the Galle area.

Kahanda Kanda rather beautifully translates into yellow moon mountain, and is a chic boutique hotel in a working tea plantation. Once the home of Englishman and interior designer George Cooper, this hilltop retreat has been receiving quite a lot of praise as being one of the top small hotels in the area.

We were welcomed to what seemed to be the bar/sitting room area and a very nice waiter (who may have very well been the famous headwaiter Henry, we can’t be sure) offered us drinks, but as the place was virtually empty except for a loud couple, we decided to proceed to the dining area in the pavilion adjacent. Through a very attractive (but lethal if you had more a few) watery walkway we went, and we were seated and served our Bloody Marys after a longish wait. The drinks were fine, but not quite as good as Charlie Hulse’s!

We were presented the set menu (around $20 a head), which looked perfectly decent:

Curried soup
Green Papaya and Chicken Salad
Choice of puddings (we chose the Coconut & Orange flan)

The service was on the slow side, but no complaints there as the place had such a relaxed and peaceful feel anyway that anything faster would have been irritating. While waiting, we enjoyed the views from the restaurant, overlooking lush jungle and part of Koggala Lake which were absolutely breathtaking.

The food arrived, and the curried vegetable soup was creamy and flavourful. The bread served alongside was homemade and delicious, but the butter (or was it margarine) was on the rancid side. The green papaya salad was plated well, and certainly was tasty, but much too hot and spicy. One of our lunch companions couldn’t eat it at all! Now I can eat a spicy curry with gusto, but I had to agree with him on this one. We all enjoyed the pudding of coconut flan though, which helped put out the fire!

Our verdict? The setting is outstanding, the service good, the food could be better (given the price – but then again, this is indicative of many Galle hotels I’m afraid). We only peeked into the rooms, which looked smart and comfortable. We’ll definitely be staying here soon! Prices start at just $230 in the low season and numerous special packages are available now.

Image via Kahanda Kanda

The Fortress Hotel is perhaps the grandest hotel in Sri Lanka of all. Owned by reputedly the richest family in Sri Lanka, it is part of the Per Aquum group of resorts, who also have a large presence in the Maldives and the Seychelles. The Fortress only opened its doors in 2007 and has certainly started with a bang, often being fully booked (especially for weddings and large functions) despite the negative news coming out of the Sri Lankan tourism industry.

The hotel is in a glorious location, set right on the Indian Ocean seaside and close to Koggala Lake, about a 20 minute drive from Galle. What sets apart the hotel from many of its competitors is not just its location, though, but its magnificent architecture and ambience, both outside and inside. We don’t often like to quote off a hotel’s own website, but in this case they have it spot on:

A hotel fashioned in the style of a powerful fortress. Rising next to the beach, the resort’s walls enclose verdant gardens and water features, a spa featuring Ayurvedic treatments, a freeflow swimming pool, wine cellar, restaurants, boutiques and exquisitely appointed rooms, lofts and residences. The resort’s architecture forges historic Dutch and Portuguese styles with the motifs of Sri Lanka.

There are 47 guest rooms, all stylishly decorated with a Colonial effect and Modern finish. There are five choices, each with its own different views and appeal: the fortress room, the beach room, the ocean room, the ocean loft and the residence. There is also a glorious spa: the Lime Spa, which specializes in traditional Ayurvedic treatments. And let’s not forget the culinary and gourmet aspects, be that the main restaurant lounge by the pool: Pepper; the modern cave for a fine glass of wine; Heat: where delicious tapas are served by the sea; a dedicated Tea section to enjoy Sri Lanka’s most famous export and the Sea Lounge where you are allowed to enjoy just one fruity cocktail too many!

Oh! and the main attraction itself: the most decadent and luxurious infinity swimming pool that one could hope for. Of course, all of this doesn’t come cheap. You’re not going to get a room for much less that $500 per night, although if you contact the hotel directly, they may give you 20% off if it’s during a quiet period.

We couldn’t recommend the Fortress Hotel more highly for those that want a luxury holiday in Sri Lanka!

After a long day shopping and soaking in the fascinating sights of Colombo, Havelock Place Bungalow is the perfect place to come back to. Its existence has always been a cherished secret to those ‘in the know’. Described by many guests as an oasis in a busy city, this elegant retreat tucked away down a quiet leafy cul-de-sac in the heart of the capital was in fact Colombo’s first boutique hotel and prides itself on its high standard of personalized service in a homely and comfortable setting. Built in the 1940s, the hotel consists of two bungalows, which have been cleverly combined and entwined within a landscaped tropical garden, that provide all modern conveniences within a charming colonial setting.

Having initially opened as an art gallery, fascinating paintings and prints still envelope the walls of the villa especially in the comfortable living room which, with its little library is the main social focal point to the property. Housing three suites and four standard rooms, each with their own courtyard or garden access, Havelock Place Bungalow has a surprisingly large garden full of flowering plants, shady trees, lush foliage and little ponds. A swimming pool and Jacuzzi is located beside an outdoor terrace with a little spot for sunbathing.

Being centrally located in the capital, Havelock Place Bungalow is the ideal place to rest at the start or end of your holiday, or as a base for exploring the exciting museums, historical sights, temples, parks and beaches that Colombo offers. There are many renowned restaurants close by while the villa is a perfect base for some last minute shopping at the end of your holiday.

The charming little hotel comprises seven comfortable and homely rooms – three suites and four standard rooms – each decorated and furnished in a different style with access to a private terrace or to the garden. Rooms come in different shapes and sizes but they are all stylishly decorated with genuine antiques including canopied four poster beds, interesting writing bureaus and wardrobes. Wi-Fi is available and all rooms have telephones. Each is air-conditioned and has en-suite bathrooms with hot water available throughout the day.

Havelock also offers excellent home cooked cuisine which has been consistently highly praised by past guests. Cooked by expert local chefs – under the supervision of Havelock’s owner Sharmala – who combine the freshest local ingredients with western cooking styles the result is a fusion of flavours that include Italian and Mediterranean specialities. The daily menu is written on a blackboard every day with choices of specials based on whichever ingredients were the freshest and best that morning when the chefs went to do the shopping. The fabulous selection of home-made ice creams and sorbets made by Sharmala should not be missed – we recommend you try the passion fruit sorbet. Delicious!

Meals may be served to you in the bistro-like restaurant or even out in the tropical garden. If you prefer to dine in your room or suite this can also be arranged – emphasis on personalized service is very important here. Breakfast consists of either western, Sri Lankan or Continental variations and along with the main meal dishes are all very reasonably priced. They also offer a good selection of imported wines.

The rates for accommodation range from $80 for a standard room and $130 for a suite. As usual, we recommend that you contact the hotel directly to make your booking.

Accreditation: Sri Lanka In Style

Ambalama offers plenty of luxe for the traveller. Its four equitable bedrooms are highlighted by comfortable four-poster beds adorned with the highest thread count linen to be found in Sri Lanka. With multiple sets of doors opening onto the front sea view verandah, louvers provide the rooms with enough of a breeze for you to hardly ever need to use the air conditioning or fan, although both are available. With two of the modern bathrooms featuring an enclosed open air shower surrounded by a soothing tropical garden, this is barefoot luxury at its best.

The main living area of Ambalama is an airy space with cool floors, high roof and a scattering of antique furniture and local art. To one end is a cosy lounge area whilst at the other is a circular dining table for eight, overlooking the pool, garden and sea. The villa is perfectly convivial and suits many group arrangements; it can easily be transformed from relaxed and intimate into something more formal depending upon the occasion. The villa has a full complement of staff, so all you have to do is ask.

The Balinese tiled swimming pool is one of the villa’s best assets. Located just footsteps from the bedrooms and living areas, the pool has an especially inviting ledge to one side from where you can sit in the sunshine and admire the view. Surrounded by a wide sun drenched terrace dotted with loungers, it is ideal for alfresco wining and dining at any time of the day. Ambalama is totally private and to the front is a large grassy lawn with access to the pristine stretch of beach just below.

One particular highlight of Ambalama is its cuisine. A lot of effort has gone into finding a great chef to create cuisine worth staying in for. Indeed, the new chef at Ambalama has worked in two of the island’s five star hotels and designed a menu that amply reflects this. From succulent seafood to sensational salads and wicked desserts, there is plenty to satisfy even the most demanding guest. And, whilst you might be enjoying five star cuisine, remember you’re not paying for it; guests only pay for the cost of the ingredients. Perfect! Three courses it is then.

The quoted rates for Ambalama Villa range from $600 per night in the value season to $900 per night in the peak season. We suggest that you contact the very efficient and friendly Tai via the website contact form.

Image via Sri Lanka in Style

The gardens at Lunuganga are a rare tropical Eden created by Geoffrey Bawa, Sri Lanka’s most influential architect. And what started out as an abandoned rubber estate, is now one of the most unique places to stay in the country. Over a span of 50 years, Bawa lovingly made this enchanting house and it’s gardens his spiritual home, which is known today as his most personal life’s work. The intriguing estate in the coastal town of Bentota has interesting history of evolution:

Bawa never kept a systematic record of the evolution of the garden and its chronology is now hard to unravel. One fascinating diary of events is provided by a large leather-bound visitors’ book containing a plethora of photographs and sketches as well as signatures and greetings: in 1965 Ulrik Plesner reflects on the problems of the Hilton project; in 1966 Ismeth Raheem records having seen over forty species of bird during one afternoon; in 1973 Donald Friend leaves a doodle of his museum on Bali; in 1997 President Kumaratunga approves the designs of her new Official Residence; and in 1998 Prince Charles drops in for tea.

Perhaps the most memorable visit of all, however, was on 3 January 1988 when a friend called Ray Wijewardene flew down from Colombo in a microlight and, misjudging his landing, crashed into the main roof of the bungalow.

Today, magazines like GQ and Conde Nast Travel have called the property one of the best “boutique hotels” in the country, but what makes it so special is not its luxurious edge, but its historical significance, its tranquility, its unique artistic temperament – both refined and wild.

Lunuganga is an artist’s retreat for most of the year, where The Bawa Trust invites selected artists to stay and soak in the inspiration.

But even if you’re not an artist, you can get a taste of the Bawa experience from December to April, when the chic Lunuganga resort is open for a brief spell to the public, now run by Geoffrey Dobbs, the man behind many of Sri Lanka’s best boutique hotels. The gardens are rather large in 25 acres of lush greenery in the Italian style, owing to the years Bawa spent in Italy, which they say, led him to dream of creating a civilized Italian garden in the wilderness of Sri Lanka’s coast.

Guests staying here will delight in the unexpected delights the gardens have to offer – from romantic loggias and courtyards, to secret areas, pretty ponds and stunning views – of jungles, paddies and a lake – all perfect for picnics or quiet contemplation. While the outdoor spaces merge with indoor spaces, the overall style of the accommodations are startlingly simple – probably so as not to deter from the glory of the gardens.

Still, it is done with the utmost style, and together with the superb food and drink (try the bracingly delicious Lunuganga Sour and the comfort food prepared by non other than Bawa’s cook Catherine), the six ensuite bedrooms spread out from the main house to Bawa’s studio, to the house on Cinnamon Hill, are all elegantly and comfortably furnished, with private butlers at your disposal.

Lunuganga is two hours drive from Colombo and prices start at just £155. For more information or to book your stay, contact the Geoffrey Bawa Trust or various travel companies like Sri Lanka in Style. But before you do, here’s something by David Robson who wrote Geoffrey Bawa: The Complete Works:

In 1948 as Sri Lanka was shaking off the shackles of empire, a young man dreamt of making a garden. Today the garden is in its prime but, after the passage of over fifty monsoons, Sri Lanka has lost its innocence and the young man has grown old. As he sits in his wheelchair on the terrace and watches the sun setting across the lake it may be that he reflects on his achievement. Perhaps the garden had simply been waiting there for him to discover it beneath a canopy of jungle?

But this is a work of art, not of nature: it is the contrivance of a single mind and a hundred pairs of hands working together with nature to produce something that is ‘supernatural’. What should become of this magic world? Ought it to be frozen or preserved? Ought it to become a national monument maintained by bureaucrats and trampled over by thousands of souvenir-hunting tourists? Better by far to let the jungle swallow it up than to see it turned into a travesty of its former self.

In an previous post, we featured the most elegant place to stay in Colombo: Park Street, developed and run by Taru Villas. Another Taru Villas property well worth exploring is The River House, located in Balapitiya, near Bentota- about a two hour drive south of Colombo on the road to Galle.

Renowned fashion designer, Taru, has surpassed herself and “Sri Lankan Boutique” in this luxurious villa along the coast from sister in quiet Balapitiya at the mouth of the Madu Ganga.

Set on a belt of coconut plantations 500m inland, the surroundings are peaceful woodland. The forest hosts many birds, and you may make an interesting visit to the nearby prawn farm on the river that borders the garden.

An excellent opportunity to join friends in stylish and spacious suites and be waited upon by any of 15 discreet and extremely professional staff, attending to the garden, housekeeping and dining.

Taru’s colourful and symmetrical style blends natural stone and wood with a profusion of Asian antiques.

Relax in your private Jacuzzi under the stars, stroll down to the pavilion and take a dip in the glistening pool, or explore Ambalangoda’s antique labyrinths for Sri Lankan mementos. Travel up river in your private motorboat,cut the engine and reach for your fishing rod.

At The River House, you will truly get to savor modern luxuries and peaceful privacy in stylish comfort. Whether you choose to spend your days in quiet relaxation surrounded by unspoiled natural beauty, or you are looking for a base to explore the South of Sri Lanka, The River House is a choice we recommend. The hotel is surrounded by 7 acres of lush land, bordering the tranquil Madhu estuary. Activities include canoeing up the river, strolling around the tropical gardens, learning about the dying traditions of the indigenous cinnamon peeler or wandering the local markets, temples & antique shops. The hotel can also arrange for you to watch one of the weekly Devil Dance & Kandyan Dance performances at the local dance school. The cuisine at The River House is also famously good. So even if you can’t find time to stay here, do stop over for lunch on your way from Colombo to Galle. There is a collection of Thai, Indian and Sri Lankan dishes, such as prawn and lychee curry, crab noodles or ginger chicken. They also serve the traditional Sri Lankan curry dinner, which is roughly nine dishes!!

There are five large private suites and open lounges with great views. Each suite has a private garden and there is a spectacular tree-lined main pool with an adjoining pool house. Accommodation rates come in between $300-$450 per night, but as always it’s well worth contacting Taru to see if you can get a discounted price.

Photo via http://www.lanka.com/

In a previous post, we featured Helga’s Folly, our pick for an unusual place to stay in Kandy. However, this is not everyone’s cup of tea and many people do find it lacks the necessary comforts. And so here we feature our second top choice in Kandy: Kandy House. Even if you do stay at Helga’s Folly and have the time, this beautiful boutique hotel is evidently well worth checking out. The hotel is located 12km from the center of Kandy and about a three and a half hour drive from Colombo airport. It is extremely tastefully and elegantly decorated and set amidst an authentic jungle.

Formerly the grand ancestral home of one of Kandy‘s most influential aristocratic families, Kandy House sits on 6 acres in a quiet village area close to Kandy. Filled with antique furniture, there are nine suites set around a central two storied courtyard and a ninth room in the garden. From the veranda where guests have breakfast and dinner, the garden descends to a palm fringed infinity pool designed in the shape of a traditional paddy field.

Kandy House was restored in a style that combines classical Kandyan period architecture with Dutch colonial furnishings and a soft, colorful and elegant finish. Large shady verandas, double hammocks and tropical lawns encourage one to find a comfortable and quiet corner to relax or read. Kandy House is a good base to explore Kandy and its surroundings: the botanical gardens, the Temple of the Tooth and the magnificent Victoria Golf and Country Club.

The menu is comprised of Oriental, Western and Sri Lankan specialties. Favorites include sugarcane prawns, juggary-cured tuna, jak seed gnocchi, chocolate-chili-cinnamon pudding and homemade durian ice cream. Everything is bought fresh from local markets each day. Breakfast and dinner is served on your own veranda or in the dinning veranda overlooking the garden. Dinner is always preceded by cocktails in the Butterfly Bar on the courtyard. Madhur Jaffry, the renowned connoisseur of Eastern food, once said: “I could settle down and live here!”

As this is one place that we haven’t actually stayed in ourselves (although we have heard great things from friends), we thought that we’d do a bit of digging up of travel reviews. 90% are excellent, for example this review from Trip Advisor:

The Kandy House is set in the hills in Kandy and is a beautiful colonial house. There is no air conditioning but I do think this would detract from the overall feel of the place if it were there. The fan in the room above the bed should be enough to keep you cool and in the early morning we found ourselves covering up as the area cooled in the shade of darkness. The house only has 8 rooms but each has its own style. We went for the big veranda room with a four poster bed, separate study/lounge area, veranda and victorian roll-top bath with separate shower. the room looks and feels lovely. The whole place has a really relaxed feel and the food is superb. On the day we left we had to be up early to travel to Colombo for our flight. The staff had made up a breakfast pack for us with water, fruit and delicious sandwiches.

There are a few games set up for the guests to play. We discovered one that looked a bit like draughts but involved flicking the pieces into pockets. two of the staff came over and saw we were struggling a bit so they gave us a great lesson in how to play the game. It feels like a family place rather than staff/guests/management. Everyone who was there seemed completely chilled out. Try out the pool, loungers and swing at the back of the house.

Sri Lankans are relaxed, friendly people and both this and the Fortress in Galle had picked the best staff possible. Really enjoyed my stay!

The 10% of negative comments seem to be in regard to two things- firstly that no children under twelve years old are allowed to stay and secondly those guests who missed having an aircon. So either of these two things are prerequisites for you, don’t stay at Kandy House. Many actually liked having no aircons and found the fans ample for cooling, and of course there are those discerning luxury travelers who couldn’t be happier to know that there will be no screaming children about

Rates for the nine suites vary hugely, as each one is different, but approximately you should expect to spend from $200 – $350 per night. As usual, we recommend contacting the hotel directly to make your booking.

Image via The Kandy House