Fort Printers is an unassumingly stylish hotel. Unpretentious and quietly chic, it is for people wanting to feel like they are staying at a town villa and yet still be spoiled with a hotel’s services. If you stroll down Galle Fort’s popular Pedlar street (great shopping), you’ll find the Fort Printers at the corner of Church street- you would immediately think the elegantly restored building was the home of some lucky expatriate and not a small luxury hotel!

There is a definite air of nostalgia here, with the black vintage car parked out front (seemingly indefinitely) and the magnificently authentic printing machine in the entrance hall, seen from the street- to name a few. Although I used the word “luxury” in the previous paragraph, I wouldn’t necessarily say the Fort Printers‘ five suites was that- if you think of that word in terms if mod cons, designer toiletries or fancy mattresses seen in most top hotels in Asia these days. It is still very comfortable in an uncluttered boutique sense and smartly furnished with select antiques and interesting handmade crafts. The cozy library and intimate lap pool area are also great additions for tour-weary guests.

As a base for getting to know Galle Fort and it’s environs, Fort Printers would be an excellent choice because of it’s ideal location close to the shops, restaurants and picturesque ramparts. The food is also known to be excellent (try the delicious Mezze menu) and considering what you get for the reasonable rate of around $120 a night (low season), including tax, you could be tempted to stay longer than planned. Or better yet, invite some friends and rent out the entire hotel for a mere $600. Another good option would be to book the “Beach-Fort” promotion, which combines a stay at it’s sister hotel, the lovely Frangipani Tree for a very affordable price, including breakfast and transfers.

The autumn forecast is definitely hot in Colombo this year, with the upcoming World Spice Festival to take place in November. This festive international event will run from November 6th-14th, and based on the success of the past few years (it first started in 2005), visitors and residents will be treated to a lively, fun and definitely delicious week of all things spice.

Celebrity chefs will be flying in from around the world, showcasing their culinary talents from venues around the city – many doing week long festivals of cooking and competing at top hotels and restaurants. The food to look forward to? Cuban American, Moroccan, Arabian, Italian, Spanish, Portugese, Szechuan, Cantonese, Seafood, Thai, Indonesian Balinese, Korean, Malaysian, Singapore, Japanese, Indian, Pakistan and Sri Lankan specialties. Wow! And there’s more- a Sri Lanka Crab promotion and spice ice cream. Now that I’d love to try, while I enjoy viewing the Spice Painting competition.

For the first few days of the event, organizers are holding a public “Global Spice Food Village” from 6 to 8th November. At the Galle Face hotel Green you can expect a flurry of smart outdoor activities, and an exotic Spice Bazaar is open nightly on the banks of Beira Lake.

This year, participating hotels, cafes and restaurants at the “Global Spice Food Village” will be Hilton Colombo, Galle Face Hotel, Galadari, Cinnamon Lakeside (formerly Trans Asia), Cinnamon Grand, Taj Samudra, Ceylon Continental, Holiday Inn, Mount Lavinia, Waters Edge, Raja Bojun, Siam House, The Mango Tree, Sizzle Grill, Regina Margharita and Nihon Bashi.

For more information, contact the hotels above participating or the organizers of the event, the Sri Lanka Tourist Development Authority .

Crispy on the edges, smooth in the center with a variety of lovely (and spicy) fillings to choose from, Hoppers are, hands down, my favourite Sri Lankan dish. These delightful pancake-style dishes are only found in Sri Lanka, and although there are different varieties you can have for breakfast, lunch, or even dinner, many locals have them for breakfast on a weekend, when they can take out their hopper pans and make them at home.

Hoppers (also called Appa) are another food native to Sri Lanka, served mainly for breakfast or lunch and often accompanied by Lunu miris, a fiery hot mix of red onions and spices. Hoppers are made from a fermented batter of rice flour, coconut milk and a dash of palm toddy, which lends a sour flavor and fermentation ability. If toddy is not available, yeast is often used. The batter is left to rise, then cooked in a hemispherical wok-like pan. There are many types of hoppers including egg hoppers, milk hoppers, and sweeter varieties like vanduappa and paniappa.

One can find hoppers all around Sri Lanka, from the street shops, restaurants, your hotel, or even the mobile hopper man, who would have them in a cart attached to his bicycle. Many hotels, like the Hilton, even hold Hopper Festivals, where their chefs put on a display of making an assortment of the little delights. The Hilton in Colombo also serves hoppers at it’s popular restaurant, the Curry Leaf, a pretty outdoor venue. In Galle, I had egg hoppers for breakfast at the Amangalla, which were excellent. Served with a delicious coconut sambal and other chillies, it was one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever had!

Below is a photo of a string hopper, which is light and good served with a curry. A must-try!

Upon arrival through Kahanda Kanda’s unassuming gates, you have to admit that you have indeed entered a very beautiful place. The tea bushes are everywhere and the buildings are all done tastefully, seamlessly blending into it’s natural surroundings. The bright orange wall and tower were a great touch, giving a sophisticated yet ethnic feel to what would otherwise be like so many other places in the Galle area.

Kahanda Kanda rather beautifully translates into yellow moon mountain, and is a chic boutique hotel in a working tea plantation. Once the home of Englishman and interior designer George Cooper, this hilltop retreat has been receiving quite a lot of praise as being one of the top small hotels in the area.

We were welcomed to what seemed to be the bar/sitting room area and a very nice waiter (who may have very well been the famous headwaiter Henry, we can’t be sure) offered us drinks, but as the place was virtually empty except for a loud couple, we decided to proceed to the dining area in the pavilion adjacent. Through a very attractive (but lethal if you had more a few) watery walkway we went, and we were seated and served our Bloody Marys after a longish wait. The drinks were fine, but not quite as good as Charlie Hulse’s!

We were presented the set menu (around $20 a head), which looked perfectly decent:

Curried soup
Green Papaya and Chicken Salad
Choice of puddings (we chose the Coconut & Orange flan)

The service was on the slow side, but no complaints there as the place had such a relaxed and peaceful feel anyway that anything faster would have been irritating. While waiting, we enjoyed the views from the restaurant, overlooking lush jungle and part of Koggala Lake which were absolutely breathtaking.

The food arrived, and the curried vegetable soup was creamy and flavourful. The bread served alongside was homemade and delicious, but the butter (or was it margarine) was on the rancid side. The green papaya salad was plated well, and certainly was tasty, but much too hot and spicy. One of our lunch companions couldn’t eat it at all! Now I can eat a spicy curry with gusto, but I had to agree with him on this one. We all enjoyed the pudding of coconut flan though, which helped put out the fire!

Our verdict? The setting is outstanding, the service good, the food could be better (given the price – but then again, this is indicative of many Galle hotels I’m afraid). We only peeked into the rooms, which looked smart and comfortable. We’ll definitely be staying here soon! Prices start at just $230 in the low season and numerous special packages are available now.

Up in the leafy hills of Kandy in the central part of the country, you’ll find the most extraordinary hotel- a technicolor vision of the old-world-meets-Goth, called Helga’s Folly. It’s a hotel and restaurant you’ll either love or hate – where literally every inch of space is painted or decorated with bright colours, fantasy murals, dripping candles and glitzy accessories crossed with the traditional – old paintings, antique furniture, stuffed animal heads and a wind-up gramophone playing Ella Fitzgerald.

Helga’s Folly is presided over Helga herself, a glamorous Anglophile in Jackie O sun glasses, with a tendency towards the eccentric:

“This is my home and I want everyone who visits it to feel at home. That is the point. I call it an Anti-Hotel! We give our in-house guests complimentary afternoon tea and before dinner serve cocktails and canapes. I try to make it feel like home. The main thing is that people must come back! And we are lucky enough to have a few that do return!”

Helga was described by the Times as “a benevolent Cruella deVil, complete with pet dalmatian” and the hotel was the home were she was raised. In those days, guests were people like Sir Laurence Olivier, Vivien Leigh and the Ghandis. These days it is fashion/rock star-types (Paula Yates reportedly loved it) and travellers looking for something different. Very different indeed! Helga comes from an illustrious family, and is the mother of British designer Selina Blow. Her history and exciting life is seen throughout the house, which is full of interesting memorabilia in every room.

But while the hotel rooms are lavishly over-the-top in style, it has been reported that they are in need of a face lift. You can choose from a variety of 40 rooms, all with wonderful balconies with views and air conditioning- from standard to the nutcracker suite, complete with a four-poster bed. A cinema room with DVDs for children was recently added, and parents will also be happy to know that the lovely staff here will entertain their children while they have a romantic dinner under the stars (at Helga’s you can choose to eat almost anywhere you please!). Facilities also include a swimming pool, lush gardens and a spa.

Whether or not this unusual place is your cup of tea, it is definitely worth a visit when you are in Kandy, which is easily one of the most picturesque places in Sri Lanka. Stop by for lunch at the very least as Helga’s now serves “Organic and Innovative” cuisine, and have a look around at this unique property- an unforgettable experience into Helga’s imagination.

Prices begin at $145 for a standard room, with breakfast $155. The Nutcracker Suite costs $440 a night, half board. For reservations, you can book directly thorough the hotel here.

One of our favourite places to eat and shop in Colombo is The Gallery Cafe. Previously the studio of Sri Lanka’s most famous architect, Geoffrey Bawa, the cafe most definitely carries his mark, and is easily the most stylish restaurant in the bustling capital and often crowded with the “who’s who” of the Colombo jet-setters and expat community.

Although it is located right at the heart of Colombo, the minute you enter the Gallery Cafe’s doors, you feel as if you have entered a tropical oasis. An open air courtyard, latticed doors, tranquil ponds strewn with purple “nil manel” (Sri Lanka’s national flower), comfortable seating and fabulous art everywhere, its the perfect place to relax after a busy day exploring the city.

Start off at the the No.18 Bar and be sure to sample their famous martinis, then after a stroll around the gallery area, pop into the shop for some lovely home items and wooden toys for the children. Then head for your table at the open-air dining area, and feast on the restaurant’s fusion menu by candlelight.

This week’s specials:

Chickpea, risoni, egg and tomato salad with vinaigrette dressing.
Roast leg of lamb with polenta, caramelized onion and mint jelly.
Char grilled duck with teriyaki sauce and pasta.
Tuna stack with salsa verde, aubergine, tomato, basil and mozzarella.
Shitake mushroom on puff pastry with parmesan, walnuts and salad.
Strawberry sundae strawberry red wine ice cream with strawberries, mascarpone, cream, kirsch and almond praline.

A meal for one will cost approx. $15 without wine. Your hotel concierge will know the place and can book you a table.