In a previous post, we featured Helga’s Folly, our pick for an unusual place to stay in Kandy. However, this is not everyone’s cup of tea and many people do find it lacks the necessary comforts. And so here we feature our second top choice in Kandy: Kandy House. Even if you do stay at Helga’s Folly and have the time, this beautiful boutique hotel is evidently well worth checking out. The hotel is located 12km from the center of Kandy and about a three and a half hour drive from Colombo airport. It is extremely tastefully and elegantly decorated and set amidst an authentic jungle.

Formerly the grand ancestral home of one of Kandy’s most influential aristocratic families, Kandy House sits on 6 acres in a quiet village area close to Kandy. Filled with antique furniture, there are nine suites set around a central two storied courtyard and a ninth room in the garden. From the veranda where guests have breakfast and dinner, the garden descends to a palm fringed infinity pool designed in the shape of a traditional paddy field.

Kandy House was restored in a style that combines classical Kandyan period architecture with Dutch colonial furnishings and a soft, colorful and elegant finish. Large shady verandas, double hammocks and tropical lawns encourage one to find a comfortable and quiet corner to relax or read. Kandy House is a good base to explore Kandy and its surroundings: the botanical gardens, the Temple of the Tooth and the magnificent Victoria Golf and Country Club.

The menu is comprised of Oriental, Western and Sri Lankan specialties. Favorites include sugarcane prawns, juggary-cured tuna, jak seed gnocchi, chocolate-chili-cinnamon pudding and homemade durian ice cream. Everything is bought fresh from local markets each day. Breakfast and dinner is served on your own veranda or in the dinning veranda overlooking the garden. Dinner is always preceded by cocktails in the Butterfly Bar on the courtyard. Madhur Jaffry, the renowned connoisseur of Eastern food, once said: “I could settle down and live here!”

As this is one place that we haven’t actually stayed in ourselves (although we have heard great things from friends), we thought that we’d do a bit of digging up of travel reviews. 90% are excellent, for example this review from Trip Advisor:

The Kandy House is set in the hills in Kandy and is a beautiful colonial house. There is no air conditioning but I do think this would detract from the overall feel of the place if it were there. The fan in the room above the bed should be enough to keep you cool and in the early morning we found ourselves covering up as the area cooled in the shade of darkness. The house only has 8 rooms but each has its own style. We went for the big veranda room with a four poster bed, separate study/lounge area, veranda and victorian roll-top bath with separate shower. the room looks and feels lovely. The whole place has a really relaxed feel and the food is superb. On the day we left we had to be up early to travel to Colombo for our flight. The staff had made up a breakfast pack for us with water, fruit and delicious sandwiches.

There are a few games set up for the guests to play. We discovered one that looked a bit like draughts but involved flicking the pieces into pockets. two of the staff came over and saw we were struggling a bit so they gave us a great lesson in how to play the game. It feels like a family place rather than staff/guests/management. Everyone who was there seemed completely chilled out. Try out the pool, loungers and swing at the back of the house.

Sri Lankans are relaxed, friendly people and both this and the Fortress in Galle had picked the best staff possible. Really enjoyed my stay!

The 10% of negative comments seem to be in regard to two things- firstly that no children under twelve years old are allowed to stay and secondly those guests who missed having an aircon. So either of these two things are prerequisites for you, don’t stay at Kandy House. Many actually liked having no aircons and found the fans ample for cooling, and of course there are those discerning luxury travelers who couldn’t be happier to know that there will be no screaming children about

Rates for the nine suites vary hugely, as each one is different, but approximately you should expect to spend from $200 – $350 per night. As usual, we recommend contacting the hotel directly to make your booking.

In a previous post, we gave our top accommodation pick for Colombo: Park Street. If that happens to be full or you fancy something a little different, here is our second top pick for a boutique hotel in Colombo to suit the luxury traveler: Casa Colombo. This hotel is very conveniently and centrally located down a private lane just off the Galle Road.

Casa Colombo is a stunningly restored 200 year old Moorish mansion originally built by one of the wealthiest Indian trading families of the time. Combining old world charm with contemporary design, Casa is a tribute to the creative talents of its owner: Lalin Jinasena who innovatively custom designed everything from the cutlery and crockery to the furniture and fabrics- solely using craftsmen and materials from Sri Lanka. With no reception desk, Casa Domos personally look after you during your entire stay by taking care of any needs that may arise be it getting you a poolside drink, taking you on a city tour or sending an important business fax.

While Casa Colombo retains the fabulous Moorish architectural style that includes charming mosaic floors, it is unconventionally infused with an edgy personalized design that blends contemporary furniture, vibrant colors and the very latest technology. Space is an added luxury in each of the highly individualized suites while perhaps the most striking feature of the hotel is the pink mosaic swimming pool that could easily be the only one of its kind in the world! Glass and cement canopied day beds beside it come with two tune selectors for chilling in the tropical sun ideally with a glass of the CASA Nova signature cocktail.

A fabulous choice of restaurants and bars for such a small hotel means that you get to dine out every night, however Colombo’s finest are all at your doorstep. With such a central location in the capital- Casa has easy access to the city’s shopping and cultural attractions, while the hotel has a private spot on Mt Lavinia Beach for the exclusive use of Casa guests.

There are twelve suites all lavishly restored. Our favorite suite (if you’re feeling flush!) is the luxurious Royal Suite with its jacuzzi in the balcony- which will set you back about $400. Alternatively, book the Ebaneza Corporate Suite (which is the most spacious of its kind) for approx. $250. You can get one of the smaller suites for around $150, but then if you’re looking to travel Sri Lanka on a budget- you’re reading the wrong blog

As usual, we recommend contacting the hotel directly to book a room to cut out any middle men- they’ll appreciate it and are more likely to give you a better deal or at the very least take special care of you!

Perhaps one of the most obvious and desirable things to do when traveling to Sri Lanka is to to visit the tea country. As TeaAuction.com writes:

“The Sri Lankan tea industry is the country’s largest employer providing jobs directly and indirectly to over a million people. It also contributes a significant amount to Government revenue and to the gross domestic product. Sri lanka is the 3rd biggest tea producer with a market share of 9%. The total land used for tea cultivation is approximately 187,309 hectares. Sri Lankan tea has unique characteristics and reputation as arguably the best teas in the world. The ideal climatic conditions of the plantation give the teas a variety of rich flavours and aromas, which indicate high quality.”

But with such a huge variety of choice and large distances to cover, where should the luxury traveler go to get a taste of the “Ceylon tea experience” while at the same time being able to relax and travel in style? We recommend Tea Trails…..

Tea Trails is in central Sri Lanka, four hours from Colombo by car to the Castlereagh Lake. It lies in the Bogawantalawa Valley, known as the Golden Valley of Tea and home to old Ceylon, replete with rolling green hills, plantation bungalows, high tea and exquisite service. Sri Lankan locals like to call this area “Little England” as it rains so much! The estate sits at an elevation of 4000 feet above sea level. There are four classic colonial bungalows built for British tea estate managers in the days of the Raj. These historic houses have been restored by Dilmah Tea with the co-operation of Bogawantalawa Tea Estates, to offer guests the unique experience of life on a working tea estate. Bungalow sizes range from 4 to 6 rooms- in all there are 20 luxurious rooms and suites. However, it is the ambience that makes the hotel so special in our opinion:

“Life in all its variety is played out in the living rooms. Pale tones and natural wood create equilibrium in the midst of a hectic life. Each bungalow has many sitting areas, old wooden desks to write postcards with real stamps and not just email. Silk cushions, regency stripped footstools, huge spaces warmed by roaring log fires. Mulled wine or the finest spirits, a drink that thrills the heart. Old books, old prints, antique maps, rooms filled with flowers in vibrant colours. Wide verandahs. Time for relaxing on cushioned cane chairs, waited on hand and foot by the discreet butler. Long expanses of slate to spend long afternoons, with a gimlet, white wine and cucumber sandwiches or fresh roasted cashews. Watch the lake and study the garden bees, while reading Somerset Maugham.”

The cuisine at Tea Trails is also excellent:

“Long teak tables and chairs in old gold. Moonlight through the window gently glows in the room, filled with the light of candles. Fine cuisine. Tea infused dishes. Sri Lankan classics. Seafood grills, fresh tropical fruit, rich chocolate cakes, the finest wines and vegetables from organic plots around the estate. A formal dinner or a simple alfresco lunch. Meals, wines and spirits included in your rate, no bills to sign. A butler at your beck and call.”

All in all, Tea Trails is the perfect place to explore Sri Lanka’s tea country from- a truly luxurious, “boutique” travel experience. You set your own pace while at Tea Trails and can unwind in the beautiful gardens, visit a factory for a gentle education in the art of Ceylon Tea, have a spa treatment or spend an adventure-filled day biking, trekking and white-water rafting. The views from all parts of the hotel are incomparably stunning.

Accommodation rates vary hugely according to how many are in your group. For a double room, prices range from $200 – $300. Best to contact the hotel directly to arrange what suits you best. Tea Trails is also part of the Sri Lanka In Style group who can also arrange a luxury tour for you.

The gardens at Lunuganga are a rare tropical Eden created by Geoffrey Bawa, Sri Lanka’s most influential architect. And what started out as an abandoned rubber estate, is now one of the most unique places to stay in the country. Over a span of 50 years, Bawa lovingly made this enchanting house and it’s gardens his spiritual home, which is known today as his most personal life’s work. The intriguing estate in the coastal town of Bentota has interesting history of evolution:

Bawa never kept a systematic record of the evolution of the garden and its chronology is now hard to unravel. One fascinating diary of events is provided by a large leather-bound visitors’ book containing a plethora of photographs and sketches as well as signatures and greetings: in 1965 Ulrik Plesner reflects on the problems of the Hilton project; in 1966 Ismeth Raheem records having seen over forty species of bird during one afternoon; in 1973 Donald Friend leaves a doodle of his museum on Bali; in 1997 President Kumaratunga approves the designs of her new Official Residence; and in 1998 Prince Charles drops in for tea.

Perhaps the most memorable visit of all, however, was on 3 January 1988 when a friend called Ray Wijewardene flew down from Colombo in a microlight and, misjudging his landing, crashed into the main roof of the bungalow.

Today, magazines like GQ and Conde Nast Travel have called the property one of the best “boutique hotels” in the country, but what makes it so special is not its luxurious edge, but its historical significance, its tranquility, its unique artistic temperament – both refined and wild.

Lunuganga is an artist’s retreat for most of the year, where The Bawa Trust invites selected artists to stay and soak in the inspiration.

But even if you’re not an artist, you can get a taste of the Bawa experience from December to April, when the chic Lunuganga resort is open for a brief spell to the public, now run by Geoffrey Dobbs, the man behind many of Sri Lanka’s best boutique hotels. The gardens are rather large in 25 acres of lush greenery in the Italian style, owing to the years Bawa spent in Italy, which they say, led him to dream of creating a civilized Italian garden in the wilderness of Sri Lanka’s coast.

Guests staying here will delight in the unexpected delights the gardens have to offer – from romantic loggias and courtyards, to secret areas, pretty ponds and stunning views – of jungles, paddies and a lake – all perfect for picnics or quiet contemplation. While the outdoor spaces merge with indoor spaces, the overall style of the accommodations are startlingly simple – probably so as not to deter from the glory of the gardens.

Still, it is done with the utmost style, and together with the superb food and drink (try the bracingly delicious Lunuganga Sour and the comfort food prepared by non other than Bawa’s cook Catherine), the six ensuite bedrooms spread out from the main house to Bawa’s studio, to the house on Cinnamon Hill, are all elegantly and comfortably furnished, with private butlers at your disposal.

Lunuganga is two hours drive from Colombo and prices start at just £155. For more information or to book your stay, contact the Geoffrey Bawa Trust or various travel companies like Sri Lanka in Style. But before you do, here’s something by David Robson who wrote Geoffrey Bawa: The Complete Works:

In 1948 as Sri Lanka was shaking off the shackles of empire, a young man dreamt of making a garden. Today the garden is in its prime but, after the passage of over fifty monsoons, Sri Lanka has lost its innocence and the young man has grown old. As he sits in his wheelchair on the terrace and watches the sun setting across the lake it may be that he reflects on his achievement. Perhaps the garden had simply been waiting there for him to discover it beneath a canopy of jungle?

But this is a work of art, not of nature: it is the contrivance of a single mind and a hundred pairs of hands working together with nature to produce something that is ’supernatural’. What should become of this magic world? Ought it to be frozen or preserved? Ought it to become a national monument maintained by bureaucrats and trampled over by thousands of souvenir-hunting tourists? Better by far to let the jungle swallow it up than to see it turned into a travesty of its former self.

The majority of “luxury” hotels in Colombo are those big, grandiose “chain hotels”, part of much larger hotel groups. Examples of these would be the Hilton, the Cinnamond Grand and the Taj Samudra. While they may be quite comfortable and convenient, they certainly lack the charm, individuality and exclusivity of a “boutique hotel” that the discerning traveler is looking for.

By far the best of such luxury boutique hotels in Colombo is the Park Street Hotel. Situated right in the heart of the city near to all the major restaurants and shopping centers, Park Street is an oasis of tranquility and elegance, set within two acres of beautifully landscaped gardens. Formerly the home of a colorful and eccentric couple who were members of Colombo’s “elite”, this 250 year old building was stylishly converted into a hotel by the Taru Villas Group, who own a collection of such boutique hotels around Sri Lanka, yet it retains all the original charm and authenticity of its previous look as a home, so that it really doesn’t feel like a hotel at all!

There are twelve rooms at Park Street, but calling them rooms is an understatement. Each room is larger and more luxurious than any suite one would find at one of the large, commercial hotels. Huge double-size king beds, a private dining area, an enormous jacuzzi- all decorated with top of the line furnishing in the “Modern meets Colonial” style of the Taru Group. The food is excellent, the swimming pool a delight, the massages heavenly and one has all the usual mod-cons in case one has to do some of the more serious stuff: a business center, WiFi everywhere in the hotel, an excellent gym and a very impressive library.

If you are looking for something a bit different and away from the usual commercial accommodation (and if you’re not, you shouldn’t be reading this blog!), then this is the ideal place for you to stay in Colombo. Rates are approx. $250 per room including breakfast and taxes, although if there’s availability you can bargain down to $200 by dropping Taru’s name (the owner). The booking form is here.

For the last two years, Geoffrey Dobbs (owner of the Sun House hotel) has organized a literary festival in Galle and it has become a huge success, with tickets sold out well in advance, hotels and villas booked choc-a-bloc and a roster of famous writers visiting that would impress any literary enthusiast.

This year’s event will be held in and around the world heritage site of Galle Fort from the 28th January to February 1st. Writers this year include Thomas Keneally, Germaine Greer, Pico Iyer, Edna O’Brien, Romesh Gunesekera, V.V. Ganeshananthan, MJ Akbar, Giles Milton, Moses Isegawa, Michael Morpurgo and many more.

The continuing popularity of the Galle Literary Festival is owing to the huge energy of Geoffrey and the many other residents of Galle Fort over the last two years. In 2008, noteworthy authors included Alexander McCall Smith, Gore Vidal, Vikram Seth and William Dalrymple. And such famous writers were joined by many renowned Sri Lankan authors and personalities- Kumar Sangakkara, Jean Arasanayagam, Nury Vittachi and countless other budding young authors, chefs, photographers and even bloggers!

You may be asking yourselves…”so where is the luxury here?” Well that’s just it really- the Galle Literary Festival is more than just a series of lectures, discussions and events. In fact one suspects that all that may be just an excuse for some serious indulgence- be that delicious lunches and dinners in the most glamorous private villas of the rich and famous, or gourmet extravaganzas at many of the local boutique hotels cooked by top chefs from around the world, or if you are inclined to be more cultural there are events such as a visit to Geoffrey Bawa’s “Secret Gardens“, where David Robson and Dominic Sansoni (authors of “Bawa: The Sri Lanka Gardens“) guide you on a tour with all the inside stories. This is just one of many events and tours arranged around the festival, which make it that much more special- an individual experience where you are really mixing with those “in the know”.

For more details on the festival, do visit the official website. It’s hard to think of a better last-minute luxury holiday one could recommend if you can still get a ticket!

Welcome to Ceylon Luxury! Sri Lanka (or Ceylon as it was once known) is considered by many to be the most beautiful country in the world. Stunning beaches, breathtaking mountain views, lush tea plantations, tranquil lakes, tropical forests and the list goes on….

The country lies next to the Maldives, which arguably has the best beaches of any country, and Kerala, the Southern state of India, which is also becoming an increasingly popular travel destination. Sri Lanka has a colorful past and is full of many natural resources, most notably its tea, coffee and spices. It is a predominantly Buddhist country (Theravada- early Buddhism) with an ancient culture that can still be seen today in many of the wonderful temples, monuments and sites. Sri Lanka was colonized by the Portuguese, then the Dutch and finally the British before achieving independence in 1948. This rich and diverse history lends itself to a very unique culture which one can see in the architecture, arts and crafts. Sri Lanka is also a home to ayurvedic medicine, which makes it especially appealing for those Westerners who believe in holistic health techniques.

Couple these facts with the most charming, kind and hospitable people you are ever likely to encounter on your travels and you have a paradise just waiting to be visited.

However, owing to the continuing problems with the civil war in the North of the country, where government troops battle Tamil Tiger rebels, tourism is at an all time low in the country. Despite the reality of it being perfectly safe to travel to Sri Lanka in the central and southern regions, the constant bad news coming out in the media is keeping the mainstream tourists away. The situation wasn’t helped in December, 2004 when the Tsunami hit the West Coast of Sri Lanka very severley and the country has yet to properly recover from this terrible disaster.

Ironically, this situation of negative publicity has opened up a different area of travel in Sri Lanka- one of luxury. This niche is filled by the discerning traveler who can afford to spend that little bit extra and doesn’t pay attention to the worries of the mass tourism industry. Furthermore, this type of luxury traveler is rather attracted by the exclusivity and personal touch that one gets by being one of the special few. It’s like a “private club” growing in the middle of Asia and the “who’s who” are being catered for by those who know how to provide service in style.

Out of this rapidly growing luxury travel market in Sri Lanka are being born the most luxurious and exclusive boutique hotels, villas, private islands, spas, restaurants, shops, specialty tours and many other aspects of luxe travel.

It is this area of luxury travel in Sri Lanka that this blog is about. We want to share first-hand with readers our knowledge of traveling the country in style and hope that we can convert a few to visit this unique island paradise. We will be reviewing and featuring every aspect of luxe travel in Sri Lanka, whether that be the hotels, private villas, restaurants or tour companies. And we won’t be just regurgitating what you can find elsewhere on the web, as we actually know Sri Lanka intimately and regularly visit the place ourselves!

Finally, we’re not out to make our millions from this blog and so won’t be filling it up with spammy affiliate links and ads. Having said this, we are probably able help you if you are serious about visiting the country as we know many of the hotel owners, etc- so can likely get you a good deal. Therefore, do contact us if you would like our help or advice.